Paling Around in Portugal: North to South to North

I never imagined that I'd ever visit Portugal, a place seemingly tinged with exotic culture and an air of unknown. I thought if I ever ventured to that part of the world, it’d be a trip to Spain, a more typical tourist destination. But then I met one of my flatmates and Portugal became a reality.

I lived with Catia all year at Cheney Student Village, along with a fantastic group of others from around the world. So once my postgraduate coursework was complete, I figured a trip was necessary to celebrate the finale of my time abroad. She offered a free bed and entertainment in Braga and so, my journey began.

My friend Miriam decided to splurge and join me on the vacation, which was much needed after the stress of moving, job hunting, and finishing up major projects. We found flights from Birmingham to Porto on the dreaded RyanAir for a measly £37 and pre-booked train tickets from Oxford. Only an hour away, Birmingham is a great alternative to London as a departure city. However, be sure to get to the station early in order to avoid getting in a physical brawl with a ticket machine, as Miriam so gracefully did—but we’ll skip over the part where some elderly ladies were befuddled by our abusive tactics. PS: If you order tickets early, you’ll need a confirmation number and/or a credit card number to access your information.

It was a quick jaunt to southern Europe and we arrived in Portugal’s second largest city within two hours. From the airport, Catia and her sister Dina picked us up and we hit the highway American style to get to Braga. This northern city has plenty to see and is a good place to get an initial taste of Portugal. Start out in the center of the city near Idol’s Fountain, where on a breezy day you’ll feel the spray of the water as you sit with a coffee in a nearby café. Drink your espresso Portuguese style by stirring it with a cinnamon stick.

Wander through the wide boulevards and take in the gothic

architecture, especially at the Braga Cathedral. Find the church pictured to the right and then try to find the roosters… the number of minutes if takes you to find them is the number of years you will wait until you’re married. Santa BarbaraPortugal. garden is near and ideal for a photo-op, plus on your way there you’ll pass the narrowest house in northern

Invest in a rental car or hitchhike* your way up the tree laden hills toward the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte. The magnificent vista before you includes Braga and the beaches of Esposende and Viana do Castelo. The Sacred Way, the impressive baroque granite staircase, is a workout, but considering pilgrims climbed it on their knees, I won’t grumble. The area is full of gardens and grottoes, sculptures and fountains. One could easily spend a day here and be fulfilled. In the area, you’ll also discover the Sameiro Sanctuary, a 19^th century domed church with more spectacular views.

*not really.

It’d almost be a sin to go all the way to sunny Portugal from dreary England without soaking up the rays on a glistening beach, and thus we headed 45 minutes west toward the Atlantic. At the sight of water, Miriam sprinted toward it with glee and we spread out our towels several meters from the shore. I’m usually not one to lounge while on a trip, especially on sand, but this was a welcomed respite (until the sunburn set in, then it was entirely regrettable). We hit the water and swam to our heart’s content; it had been years since I splashed around in the ocean. The area was clean and calm, with the Mediterranean sun blazing on our backs.

Our time in Portugal was not spent entirely up north, we also ventured south by train. An early morning departure to Lisbon landed Miriam and I there in three hours flat. We maneuvered the metro and got from Oriente Station to old town in several stops and one switch. If traveling from the north, ride the train all the way to Santa Apolonia Station to avoid the metro (whoops!).

We had the city center all to ourselves once we arrived—the streets of Lisbon are eerily quiet on Sunday mornings. Following the directions scribbled on my piece of paper led us to a narrow door, leading to one of my favorite hostels yet. We were greeted like royalty at Goodnight Backpacker's, Rua dos Correeiros 113. They gave us coffee and breakfast, stored our luggage, and allowed us to relax in their chic lounge … all before the official check-in time. For €20 a night each, this pick proved to be stellar (94% satisfaction on hostelworld.com) especially considering we were located in Baixa, the city center.

With only a day to explore this historic city, we set out to find some sights. Following the tradition of figuring things out upon arrival, we decided to simply use our internal compasses, which led us to the Castle of São Jorge. Towering above the city, this spot has been privy to human occupation since the 6^th century BC. Once you huff and puff your way up the narrow streets, pay the €3 fee to get into the castle so you can enjoy the absolutely breathtaking views. Take note of the indigenous cork trees once you make it to the top. Our eyes seemed to be playing tricks on us as we looked out and saw what was reminiscent of the Golden Gate Bridge. Later on, our research concluded that the 25 de Abril Bridge was built by the same construction company.

Flip flop wearers beware as you descend, for the detailed cobblestone streets are not kind to the soles of your feet. If you head toward the side with the water, you’ll inevitably pass the Lisbon Cathedral within Alfama, the oldest city district. Once we were back on level ground, we found a bustling African market on Augusta Street… Lisbon seemed to wake up while we were at the castle. We took in a late Italian lunch in an outdoor bistro and then set out toward the northern part of the city.

The Estrela Basilica was certainly impressive, but perhaps not worth the long walk... try taking one of the famous Lisbon trams if you’re feeling adventurous or know a little Portuguese. We sat in a busy park mere steps away from the historical landmark and wrote postcards to home, although here’s a pertinent warning: don’t mail anything from a Portuguese mailbox! It took months for these cards to emerge in the US (I made it back before they did). Spare the authenticity and mail them when you

get home.

On our way back to the city center, we passed the Assembly of the Republic building, large in size and in splendor. But splendor soon turned to seedy as dusk happened to sneak up on us and we got lost. With a newfound spring in our step, we tried to retrace our route to no avail. At that point we discovered the other side of Lisbon, a poorer, unsavory district unmentioned by tour books. We finally figured a way toward the water and followed it back toward Augusta Street; the unplanned quest was a good reminder to carry a proper map.

Walking throughout Baixa that evening, we were bombarded by restaurant owners trying to entice us in for dinner. This was unexpected and unappreciated, so we went to the first place that didn’t try to lure us in. A decent and traditional Portuguese meal was had, along with some vinho verde, a refreshing young wine that is only available in Portugal.

The next morning we hurried out of our bunk beds to catch a 5:30 train and we journeyed back up to Braga to spend our last day with Catia and her family. The next morning we had another early wake up call to get on a bus toward Spain. Although this acted as my first official trip to Spain, it was not an extended one as we were just flying out of Vigo. However, the ride to this small, rural airport was enjoyable with rolling hills of green. Keep in mind the time difference between Portugal and Spain while traveling, we almost had another Dublin experience on our hands if we had been late.

Portugal was altogether unexpected and enjoyable. It exposed me to another unique region of the world and I was thankful to have a resident tour guide along for the ride (many thanks, Catia!). So check one hometown off the list of flatmate tours. What’s next? Maybe a spree to Seychelles to visit Jessica? Or perhaps a jaunt to Jordan, an itinerary in India, or a caravan to Canada? Oh, how I love going to school abroad!

Updates coming soon...

-Portugal (Braga, Lisbon)
-Scotland (Inverness)
-England (Oxford)
-New Mexico (Santa Fe)

A Beautiful Corner of the World: Bavaria

The glory of having a Eurail pass isn’t just the automatic first class upgrade, but the fact you can go off route and explore different cities within the selected country at no extra charge.

From Munich we headed toward Passau for a night, but before we got there we took a detour to Regensburg, a Bavarian city where the Danube and Regen rivers meet. Catch this place on a sunny day and it’s one of the most picturesque cities in existence.

We didn’t have a map or any sense of what to do in this Gothic inspired area of Germany, so we chose a direction and headed in it once we left the train station. Our internal compasses must have been in working order, because we followed a wide stretch of commercial boulevard and came across some gorgeous buildings.

Cross The Stone Bridge over the Danube and behold history at your feet, as this footbridge was built in 1146 and was used during the crusades. Regensburg Cathedral is certainly worth a reconnoiter. This beautiful city has something to see – and take a picture of – at every corner.

From Regensburg we went to Passau, which won’t earn more than a few sentences in my blog. This hilly, university town is a good place to recover when you reach your mid-vacation crisis (running out of laundry). There’s not a huge to-do list, unless you want to do some general shopping or lounging. We regretfully stayed at the overpriced Achat Hotel and drank dunkel bier all night at Maxi Café/Bistro up the street.

Moving on from Passau, we were delighted to reach Nürnberg. This historic city made a definite impression on our trip, marking my favorite stop on our European Explosion Tour.

We stayed at the EuroHotel/Suites, which I highly recommend. A double room runs for 100 euros, but the room was huge and you’re on the castle’s doorstep. The Nürnberg Castle’s distinct sandstone rock makes up three parts and offers impressive views and a grand sense of history.

Just walking through this amazing city is interesting, as it blends old and contemporary architecture because of the damage done during World War II. The Hauptmarkt was buzzing with stands offering food and flowers, along with year-long Christmas décor. Nürnberg simply oozes with historical value, it’s a great place to be a tourist.

As for food, The Bratwurste Hausla was overpriced and overrated, so don’t be lured in by the tempting smell of sausages. Make your way to the Handwerkerhof area and ignore the kitschy tourist feeling in favor of Fränkische Weinstube. This traditional German open air restaurant was one of the best yet and had the kind of schnitzel my German grandmother would make. Near EuroHotel/Suites we had a quiet meal at the Trattoria Germania. It was moderately priced, delicious, and local… not to mention, a respite from German food.

You might be wondering how the typical hunt for coffee went in this new place… let me assure you, we weren’t disappointed. The Starbucks in Nürnberg ranks in my top favorite of all time, since it’s located right along the water and is deceptively huge (Hauptmarkt 1). That makes up for the fact we couldn’t find decent coffee anywhere else.

Our last night in Germany needed to be spent near the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. Funny thing about getting a flight for a penny one way (that includes taxes and fees, my friends) is that you end up in the middle of no where. Before we left, I called several hotels in the surrounding area and put my diminutive German-speaking skills to the test. Apparently it worked, because we secured a reservation at Hotel de Charme.

Now let’s get something straight, traveling with a sibling is awesome… you typically get along, have the same interests, share the same sense of humor. However, you run the risk of people assuming you’re not siblings. This was the case in Iffezheim, where even through the language barrier we understood that our bed and breakfast owner thought we were married. This was further emphasized when he told us in a French accent that the area was very romantic. Needless to say, it was awkward.

Moving right along, we had a blasé meal in town at Bei Leuchtners, had a comfortable (albeit discomfited) stay at Hotel de Charme, and then took a 30 euro cab ride to the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. We passed the village we wanted to stay in, but alas, it was all booked up for a gnome festival (seriously). The lack of hotels near the airport didn’t make the penny flight worth it, so I suggest shelling out a few extra euros to fly to/from a major airport. But hey, if you’re considering buying real estate, may I suggest you pick up some land in this area and build a hotel.

Ich Liebe Deutschland: Munich

After Budapest, I couldn’t wait to hit Bavaria (I may have composed a song to drive this point home, but I’ll spare you the details/lyrics). Mark and I set off for Germany on 10 June by train, though not without a near meltdown as we tried to find the platform in Budapest. Keeping what could be a very long-winded story short, basically there wasn’t an international booth so we had to board without validating tickets. We assumed this would prove problematic on the German side of things, but we took the risk and hopped the 9 a.m. train toward Vienna.

We booked two Eurail Rail and Drive passes before we left the US and they were delivered the day before the Euro tour. If you’re going for a basic pass, check out the Eurail Web site, but if you have any questions or want to do something unique, don’t hesitate to call them (US Number: 1-800-352-7661. International Number: 1-800-352-7661). The customer service rep exuded charm and efficacy, so no need to battle through the Web site for answers.

By the time we reached the Austrian border, the entire aura transformed outside our first class windows. The landscape changed from boring Hungarian plains to a winding journey through some charming wooden areas, where Austrian flags hung with pride.

With a few hours to kill in Vienna, we wish there had been more time allotted to this part of the trip. The shopping street near the Westbahnhof was absolutely hopping with consumers of food and goods alike. Find Café Aroma if you want to meet the nicest Austrians in the world, have a peach cake, and check your e-mail for free on their computer.

By the time we reached Munich a few hours later, we were thrilled to be exploring yet another city. Once we escaped the seedy area around the train station, we instantly fell in love with the broad boulevards lined with trees on the way to our hostel.

The Easy Palace didn’t evoke that warm and fuzzy feeling, but for €18 a night, the EP made for some decent accommodation. It was clean and quiet, with large rooms and a nice staff. The entire town seemed booked, so make sure to reserve early if you’re hitting up Munich in the summertime.

On the way to the hostel we spotted a jubilant restaurant, Café am Beethovenplatz, with live music and a large crowd. Since we were saving so much by staying at a hostel, we decided to splurge and eat at this place, which ended up being one of the best decisions of the entire trip.

Sitting on the exterior patio, the summer breeze hit just right and the grand piano could be heard playing through the windows. Our waitress was fantastic, speaking just enough English to help us with the all-German menu. When she came back with our beers ten minutes later, she apologized profusely for taking so long and gave us two shots of Jaeger on the house. The food was as close to perfection as you could get (I had the turkey, Mark had the pork) and needless to say, it was a welcome occasion after the blasé fare we received in Budapest.

Munich is a really practical city for walking and checking out the sites, of which there are plenty to choose from. We started out with a Starbucks coffee at the train station (best train station in the world, and I’m not just saying that because it produced a decent cup of brew!). Heading east from the train station, we came upon the Marienplatz, or the central square, home to the Glockenspiel (bell-tower). Buy a pretzel or some strawberries to munch and wander through the lively market, the experience is unmatched.

We walked in the rain along Maximilianstrasse, which was pretty uneventful, until you see what’s across the Isar River. You can snap some good shots of the Maximilianeum, the seat of Bavarian Parliament, from afar, but the magnitude of the building can only be felt at the foot of the gargantuan building.

The downtown palace is worthy of a check out. There is rich history and lots of knick-knacks to muse over at The Residenz, a complex built in 1385. Between the architecture, décor, and gardens, this royal oasis is certainly impressive for only €8 each.

After a long walk, lunch and pint were in order, so we stopped into the legendary Haufbrauhaus. Honestly, it’s kind of a rip off for food, but the building and atmosphere can’t be beat, so go for a beer and a photo. A bigger rip off is the Paulaner Munchen, where you can’t even get a good beer. So if you want a truly good German meal with a quality mug of brew, drop into the Augustiner. Any schnitzel will be a dream come true and I recommend the mushroom turkey schnitzel. We befriended a neighboring diner (who I dubbed Herr Asland Mueller) and we had a half German, half English conversation. The overall experience was everything I expected out of Germany.

The Augustiner is near the grounds for Oktoberfest, which are obviously vacant when not covered in beer tents in September, but the Bavaria statue is amazing. The bronze-cast statue of the goddess of Bavaria is over 18 meters high and nearly 100 tonnes… wow! It towers in comparison to pretty much anything and is worth a close up look.

Munich is an enthralling city, rich in history and entertainment. Friendly natives who are accustom to tourists and not annoyed by them is a rarity in Europe, so take advantage of the locals’ pleasant demeanor here. Munich’s motto is “München Mag Dich” ("Munich Likes You"). Well, hey… I can assure you that the feeling’s mutual!

Hungry for Entertainment: Bored in Budapest

I disliked Budapest the moment our EasyJet plane skidded on the slick runway. It wasn’t anything specific, but just a general feeling of discontent. There was something inexplicable about the two cities of old and new that didn’t sit right.

To be honest though, I went to Hungary with zero expectations; reading the few paragraphs dedicated to Budapest in my Lonely Planet didn’t necessarily prepare me for landing. But figuring things out when you get there is half the fun. However, my overly organized self wouldn’t enter a bustling city without a hotel booked, so we researched the best option online, and found a steal of a deal at The Radio Inn.

Arriving at the small airport on the outskirts of town, we changed money to forints ($1 USD = 153 HUF) and then hopped on a bus to the metro station. Through the rain soaked window we took note of what can only be described as communist block buildings as we pulled up to the metro station.

The station itself was filled with smoke and sketchy looking locals, with everything seemingly in a sepia tone. I suggest you clutch your purse until you can escape. We bought tickets from the unhelpful help desk and then maneuvered the metro to an area near Hero’s Square.

The Radio Inn looked great online, a two-bed apartment for $90 in a quiet diplomatic area, but of course, these things are usually too good to be true. It definitely served its purpose and was in a great location, but The RI could have been a lot better. For instance, it could have a shower curtain.

As mentioned, the location was supreme and we landed a spot within fifteen minutes of all the PestAndrassy Street you can find Liszt Square action. The action, however, didn’t consist of much. Off with a row of restaurants. The prices are high, but it’s worth it for consistency and a guaranteed crowd. Stray down any other streets and chances are you’ll be greeted by front window kebab shops and random underground clubs.

Our first real day there turned out better than the first (the sun certainly helped matters). We took in a coffee at Vian Café in Liszt Square and headed toward the Danube. Saint Stephen’s Basilica is amazing and architecturally speaking, all of Budapest proves impressive. We crossed the bridge to get to Buda Castle and the views could take your breath away. Of course, climbing up to the castle will also take your breath away, but it’s feasible without the help of public transportation.

Wandering around the castle area took up a good amount of the day, along with an overpriced meal at Miro Café. Mark had a field day with all the photo-ops while on the hill. We headed back to our hotel for a break before dinner, which was plain yet filling at Moyo Café.

The best night out we had started at Champs Pub where they had plenty of screens to watch the EuroCup matches. After a pint, we went across the street to Den Haag Pizzeria and had the best meal in Budapest: a pizza for 800 HUF. Back at Liszt Square, we went to Karma for dessert and to watch the rest of the game.

Be sure to check out the Baths in City Park if you’re into that sort of thing (meaning public baths; to steal a line from The Daily Show, “….excuse me while I get the taste of band-aids and urine out of my mouth”). Hero’s Square, the art museum, and the park are notable attractions all located in the same area. An almost decent cup of coffee can be had at Gloria Jeans near the square, though expect to shell out about $9 for two. Why am I always on the hunt for a good cup of coffee? Oh yeah, because it's impossible to find in Europe.

The whole time I was in Budapest, I couldn’t wait for the next adventure. Rarely do I give a city a bad review on this blog, in fact most seem to rank in my top favorites, but Budapest deserves a thumbs down. If you’re in the area, check it out, but you only need a day to fully explore the capital of Hungary. The food is blasé – I dare say bad – and the tourist attractions are fairly lackluster. We didn’t find any pleasant locals and unless you’re down with the underground club scene, the nightlife is nonexistent. Sorry Hungary, but even with zero expectations, you failed.