A Beautiful Corner of the World: Bavaria

The glory of having a Eurail pass isn’t just the automatic first class upgrade, but the fact you can go off route and explore different cities within the selected country at no extra charge.

From Munich we headed toward Passau for a night, but before we got there we took a detour to Regensburg, a Bavarian city where the Danube and Regen rivers meet. Catch this place on a sunny day and it’s one of the most picturesque cities in existence.

We didn’t have a map or any sense of what to do in this Gothic inspired area of Germany, so we chose a direction and headed in it once we left the train station. Our internal compasses must have been in working order, because we followed a wide stretch of commercial boulevard and came across some gorgeous buildings.

Cross The Stone Bridge over the Danube and behold history at your feet, as this footbridge was built in 1146 and was used during the crusades. Regensburg Cathedral is certainly worth a reconnoiter. This beautiful city has something to see – and take a picture of – at every corner.

From Regensburg we went to Passau, which won’t earn more than a few sentences in my blog. This hilly, university town is a good place to recover when you reach your mid-vacation crisis (running out of laundry). There’s not a huge to-do list, unless you want to do some general shopping or lounging. We regretfully stayed at the overpriced Achat Hotel and drank dunkel bier all night at Maxi Café/Bistro up the street.

Moving on from Passau, we were delighted to reach Nürnberg. This historic city made a definite impression on our trip, marking my favorite stop on our European Explosion Tour.

We stayed at the EuroHotel/Suites, which I highly recommend. A double room runs for 100 euros, but the room was huge and you’re on the castle’s doorstep. The Nürnberg Castle’s distinct sandstone rock makes up three parts and offers impressive views and a grand sense of history.

Just walking through this amazing city is interesting, as it blends old and contemporary architecture because of the damage done during World War II. The Hauptmarkt was buzzing with stands offering food and flowers, along with year-long Christmas décor. Nürnberg simply oozes with historical value, it’s a great place to be a tourist.

As for food, The Bratwurste Hausla was overpriced and overrated, so don’t be lured in by the tempting smell of sausages. Make your way to the Handwerkerhof area and ignore the kitschy tourist feeling in favor of Fränkische Weinstube. This traditional German open air restaurant was one of the best yet and had the kind of schnitzel my German grandmother would make. Near EuroHotel/Suites we had a quiet meal at the Trattoria Germania. It was moderately priced, delicious, and local… not to mention, a respite from German food.

You might be wondering how the typical hunt for coffee went in this new place… let me assure you, we weren’t disappointed. The Starbucks in Nürnberg ranks in my top favorite of all time, since it’s located right along the water and is deceptively huge (Hauptmarkt 1). That makes up for the fact we couldn’t find decent coffee anywhere else.

Our last night in Germany needed to be spent near the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. Funny thing about getting a flight for a penny one way (that includes taxes and fees, my friends) is that you end up in the middle of no where. Before we left, I called several hotels in the surrounding area and put my diminutive German-speaking skills to the test. Apparently it worked, because we secured a reservation at Hotel de Charme.

Now let’s get something straight, traveling with a sibling is awesome… you typically get along, have the same interests, share the same sense of humor. However, you run the risk of people assuming you’re not siblings. This was the case in Iffezheim, where even through the language barrier we understood that our bed and breakfast owner thought we were married. This was further emphasized when he told us in a French accent that the area was very romantic. Needless to say, it was awkward.

Moving right along, we had a blasé meal in town at Bei Leuchtners, had a comfortable (albeit discomfited) stay at Hotel de Charme, and then took a 30 euro cab ride to the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. We passed the village we wanted to stay in, but alas, it was all booked up for a gnome festival (seriously). The lack of hotels near the airport didn’t make the penny flight worth it, so I suggest shelling out a few extra euros to fly to/from a major airport. But hey, if you’re considering buying real estate, may I suggest you pick up some land in this area and build a hotel.

Ich Liebe Deutschland: Munich

After Budapest, I couldn’t wait to hit Bavaria (I may have composed a song to drive this point home, but I’ll spare you the details/lyrics). Mark and I set off for Germany on 10 June by train, though not without a near meltdown as we tried to find the platform in Budapest. Keeping what could be a very long-winded story short, basically there wasn’t an international booth so we had to board without validating tickets. We assumed this would prove problematic on the German side of things, but we took the risk and hopped the 9 a.m. train toward Vienna.

We booked two Eurail Rail and Drive passes before we left the US and they were delivered the day before the Euro tour. If you’re going for a basic pass, check out the Eurail Web site, but if you have any questions or want to do something unique, don’t hesitate to call them (US Number: 1-800-352-7661. International Number: 1-800-352-7661). The customer service rep exuded charm and efficacy, so no need to battle through the Web site for answers.

By the time we reached the Austrian border, the entire aura transformed outside our first class windows. The landscape changed from boring Hungarian plains to a winding journey through some charming wooden areas, where Austrian flags hung with pride.

With a few hours to kill in Vienna, we wish there had been more time allotted to this part of the trip. The shopping street near the Westbahnhof was absolutely hopping with consumers of food and goods alike. Find Café Aroma if you want to meet the nicest Austrians in the world, have a peach cake, and check your e-mail for free on their computer.

By the time we reached Munich a few hours later, we were thrilled to be exploring yet another city. Once we escaped the seedy area around the train station, we instantly fell in love with the broad boulevards lined with trees on the way to our hostel.

The Easy Palace didn’t evoke that warm and fuzzy feeling, but for €18 a night, the EP made for some decent accommodation. It was clean and quiet, with large rooms and a nice staff. The entire town seemed booked, so make sure to reserve early if you’re hitting up Munich in the summertime.

On the way to the hostel we spotted a jubilant restaurant, Café am Beethovenplatz, with live music and a large crowd. Since we were saving so much by staying at a hostel, we decided to splurge and eat at this place, which ended up being one of the best decisions of the entire trip.

Sitting on the exterior patio, the summer breeze hit just right and the grand piano could be heard playing through the windows. Our waitress was fantastic, speaking just enough English to help us with the all-German menu. When she came back with our beers ten minutes later, she apologized profusely for taking so long and gave us two shots of Jaeger on the house. The food was as close to perfection as you could get (I had the turkey, Mark had the pork) and needless to say, it was a welcome occasion after the blasé fare we received in Budapest.

Munich is a really practical city for walking and checking out the sites, of which there are plenty to choose from. We started out with a Starbucks coffee at the train station (best train station in the world, and I’m not just saying that because it produced a decent cup of brew!). Heading east from the train station, we came upon the Marienplatz, or the central square, home to the Glockenspiel (bell-tower). Buy a pretzel or some strawberries to munch and wander through the lively market, the experience is unmatched.

We walked in the rain along Maximilianstrasse, which was pretty uneventful, until you see what’s across the Isar River. You can snap some good shots of the Maximilianeum, the seat of Bavarian Parliament, from afar, but the magnitude of the building can only be felt at the foot of the gargantuan building.

The downtown palace is worthy of a check out. There is rich history and lots of knick-knacks to muse over at The Residenz, a complex built in 1385. Between the architecture, décor, and gardens, this royal oasis is certainly impressive for only €8 each.

After a long walk, lunch and pint were in order, so we stopped into the legendary Haufbrauhaus. Honestly, it’s kind of a rip off for food, but the building and atmosphere can’t be beat, so go for a beer and a photo. A bigger rip off is the Paulaner Munchen, where you can’t even get a good beer. So if you want a truly good German meal with a quality mug of brew, drop into the Augustiner. Any schnitzel will be a dream come true and I recommend the mushroom turkey schnitzel. We befriended a neighboring diner (who I dubbed Herr Asland Mueller) and we had a half German, half English conversation. The overall experience was everything I expected out of Germany.

The Augustiner is near the grounds for Oktoberfest, which are obviously vacant when not covered in beer tents in September, but the Bavaria statue is amazing. The bronze-cast statue of the goddess of Bavaria is over 18 meters high and nearly 100 tonnes… wow! It towers in comparison to pretty much anything and is worth a close up look.

Munich is an enthralling city, rich in history and entertainment. Friendly natives who are accustom to tourists and not annoyed by them is a rarity in Europe, so take advantage of the locals’ pleasant demeanor here. Munich’s motto is “München Mag Dich” ("Munich Likes You"). Well, hey… I can assure you that the feeling’s mutual!