Reykjavik: A Trip Within a Trip

If my ten hour layover in Reykjavik taught me anything, it was how to spell Reykjavik. See it enough on itineraries, boarding passes, bus stops, and airport signage—you learn the correct order of that pesky y-k-j. 

Of course, that’s the extent of my flirtation with learning the Icelandic language. When you only have ten hours in a place, it doesn’t become essential to learn the linguistics. I did gain a few key takeaways, however. Including, but not limited to, when you travel to Iceland at the end of November, don’t expect the sun to come out before 10:30. A few other fun facts: Iceland formed the world’s first parliament, the prime minister is listed in the phone book, and half the population actually believes in elves. 

Those last few facts are courtesy of Icelandair, my chosen mode of transportation that provided a direct flight from Denver to Reykjavik before making the final leg of the journey to London. While the extended layover sounds laborious, it was actually welcomed as it made for a trip within a trip. And let’s be honest: ten hours in Reykjavik is all you really need for a solid sample of Iceland to determine if you’d go back. The verdict? In a heartbeat. Though perhaps in the summer…

Reykjavik is cold, dark, and expensive (like the best kind of beers), but it was also quaint, friendly, and beautiful. A 50-minute bus journey from Keflavik Airport to the city center runs a bit more than you want to pay at $25 one way, but the bus has wi-fi and it was dark enough to sneak in some slumber. By the time the bus dropped us off in the middle of the city, it was about 6:45 a.m. Here’s a tip for you travelers looking to run around Reykjavik on an early morning layover: get coffee at the airport.

Walking through the chilly streets, John and I peered into every coffee shop window hoping to spot a single soul willing to open their doors to us. The only other people out in the streets seemed to be fellow Americans from our flight seeking a warm beverage. We hiked up to the Hallgrímskirkja church (the largest church in Iceland) and then made our way back down through the main street. The architecture was cheery and bright, and there were a lot of options to choose from—once they opened. We finally gained access to a cute coffee shop and fueled up on caffeine. By 10:00, we found the cool and cozy Laundromat Café serving breakfast. 

With coffee and sustenance on our side, we went back out and braved the elements to see the sights in daylight. The charming shops lining the spotless streets were all too expensive to seriously consider a purchase, but they were toasty warm enough to pretend we were interested in $200 Icelandic hats or Nordic beer steins.

A few spots you can visit while on your Icelandic sojourn (just in Reykjavik):

• 871 Settlement Museum
• Famous Fish Market (Fiskmarkaðurinn)
• Islenski Barinn Pósthússtræti 9 (30+ microbrews from Iceland, pints starting at $5.50)
• National Museum of Iceland
• Solfar (Sun Voyager) Sculpture

Of course, the real Iceland would best be viewed by car over the course of a few days. Go off and see the majestic natural wonders of this intriguing country, soak in some hot springs, and partake in the famed nightlife (apparently you haven’t partied until you’ve partied in Iceland). Our little layover didn’t allot for such adventures, but the touch of Iceland I saw was worth the stop before we began our “real” journey.  Next time I’ll stay a little longer—maybe see the aurora borealis and the Blue Lagoon. But for a trip within a trip, Iceland was ideal.

Opting for Ohio: Seeing Cincinnati

Tell people you’re going to Ohio. Go on, try it. Chances are the first question they ask will be “why?” For some reason I felt compelled to defend Ohio—“why not?” I would reply with a slight tone of indignation. But in all honesty, I would never opt in for Ohio if my friends didn’t live in Cincinnati.

Settled along the Ohio River and on the edge of the Ohio-Kentucky border, Cincinnati is home to Skyline Chili, the Reds, and the Schelles (of the Mike and Erin variety). That was about the extent of my knowledge of this fair Midwestern city, where we lay our scene. Landing in Dayton, which offered a direct flight opportunity from Denver, we were about an hour from our final destination of the ‘nati. Upon arrival, we headed straight to Skyline Chili.

When I first met the Schelles in Albuquerque in 2010, Skyline was the only chili they cared about. But after living in New Mexico, they became quick converts to the wonderful world of green chile (helping to keep our friendship intact). But since I was on their turf, it was only fair I try the famed Skyline. Instructed by multiple sources to get it three-way, I ordered as I was told and was soon presented with a tangled heap of spaghetti covered in original chili below a mountain of cheddar cheese. Finish the meal off with a York peppermint patty, and simply savor the odd yet crave-worthy Cincinnati classic.

Downtown Cincinnati plays it cool. There’s no air of pretention along the interesting boulevards, which are lined with historic buildings on both sides. We skipped the better known hipster hotspots, but the general vibe of Cincy keeps it on the hipster side of things. That is to say, effortlessly cool. Gentrified neighborhoods with restaurants in warehouses and funky markets a stone’s throw away from the central business district make it a dichotomy of sorts; historic yet contemporary, Midwestern yet Southern, hip yet Ohio.

Perched at tall tables along a swanky bar, we grabbed lunch at Taste of Belgium, which was bustling Friday at midday. I committed to a delicious decision in the Southwestern waffle (turkey, chipotle aioli, pepper jack smushed between two Belgian waffles), while Mike went with the traditional Chicken and Waffles with a European twist. Dense and delightful, the waffles were far from the frozen variety–no need to leggo an Eggo. If you find yourself in downtown Cincinnati, make this joint a priority. 

If you need a better view of Cincinnati (and really, who doesn’t?), it’s only reasonable you go to Kentucky. Cross the Daniel Carter Beard Bridge, better known as the Big Mac Bridge due to its familiar looking yellow arches, and you’ll find yourself in Newport. Of course, in the words of Mike Schelle, “You always know when you're in Kentucky.” We’ll leave that one up to the imagination so not to insult any readers out there.

The green scene in Ohio is not to be underestimated. I laugh thinking how New Mexicans tried to persuade Mike and Erin that Albuquerque “really does get green” in the spring when I see the land they hail from. As an original upstate New Yorker, I can commiserate with the varying perceptions of greenery. Whether you’re driving down the highway or hiking through the woods along a creek, you’ve got green at every angle on that side of the Mississippi River.

To reward ourselves after the aforementioned hike through the woods, we stopped in at Graeters Ice Cream, which markets itself as irresistible, and I have to agree. Black Raspberry Chip was the flavor of choice and it proved as irresistible as the sign suggests. Although whatever you do, don’t leave a single solitary spoonful of ice cream in that cup if you want to remain friends with the Schelles. They do not look kindly upon leftovers. 

 

The National Museum of the United States Air Force in Dayton is a behemoth of a building that houses scores of military aircraft throughout the years. Wander through for free and be amazed by the evolution of technology—from the early editions before World War I through to the B-29 that dropped the Fat Man atomic bomb on Nagasaki, it’s not every day one is privy to this kind of showcase.

The rest of the weekend swirled in a cocktail-fueled friend frenzy—with a firepit!—that would be boring for those not in the loop of pals. Reminiscing, catching up on the latest news, and watching Arrested Development all played their parts in a friendtastic weekend. Sure, we may have eaten like we were 12 and it was our first weekend away from our parents (hamburgers, pulled pork, homemade ice cream sandwiches, oh my!), but the copious amounts of cocktails ensured we were in fact acting our age. Mike even makes his own simple syrup. That’s pretty adulty. 

One of the greatest pleasures in life is making and keeping friendships that can take you to places you’ve never imagined. And while I’ve indeed imagined Ohio before (even drove through it once en route from New York to New Mexico!), it was nice to taste a slice of America for a few days that’s a little different than my corner of the world.