Sunday, February 19, 2017

Ciao Italia! Roaming Rome and Sauntering through Sorrento

Preparing for Landing

Italy was a recent addition to the list. You see, there’s a list of places to go. In my head, on Pinterest, in a notebook I keep in my nightstand. The locales on the list are usually more exotic and seemingly adventurous than Italy. But then I started to think about the history, the food, the architecture — and realized it was everything I wanted and more in an international getaway.

Of course, once you add Italy to the list, the possibilities are endless. Do we traverse the Cinque de Terre and hike up hills for majestic views? Do we drive along the rolling hills of Tuscany and have our moment under the sun? Or how about a solid week in Rome soaking up the many sights to see there? We let Hilton decide.

John and I have been collecting credit card points and had them stacked up for a vacation. Searching the Hilton website for destinations in Italy, we found our spot: Sorrento. And being that all roads lead to Rome (quite literally at a certain time it turns out), we started and ended the trip in the capital and sandwiched Sorrento in-between.


But before I describe in detail our Roman holiday, let’s get to the namesake of this website and prepare for landing. Those credit card points didn’t just afford us hotels for the week, but we also secured first class seats to/from our final destination. First class was a first for me and British Airways delivered a seamless journey. We kicked off a week of drinking wine with some free glasses at the DIA lounge, then sauntered to our gate a few steps away. Walking passed the line of weary travelers and stepping right on board to our seats, I was already amazed…then we sat down.


Champagne was poured, a four-course meal served, and a bed made up with the most attentive service I’ve experienced anywhere, ever. Before I knew it, we were touching down in London and I didn’t want the journey to end (indubitably the first and only time I’ve ever thought that thought after a transatlantic flight). Of course the shitshow that is Heathrow’s Terminal 5 brought our serene senses to a screeching halt, but then we were back in heaven after 90 minutes of bus transfers and security checks. We decompressed in the Concorde Room and enjoyed free food, coffee, and mimosas before our connecting flight…as you do.

Rome

But enough with first class travel bragging and onward to Rome! An untalkative driver met us at the airport and dropped us at our hotel for the next three days: the Hilton Garden Inn Rome Claridge. Nestled in an upper echelon neighborhood on the north side of Rome, the Hilton was surrounded by restaurants full of locals (always a good sign). Arriving in the early evening, we chose to dine at La Pariolina (Viale Dei Parioli 93, 00197) and it was likely one of the best meals of the trip. They started with a bucket of freshly homemade potato chips and we enjoyed plates of saucy lasagna and carbonara.


Our first official day in Rome was full of everything you would expect: Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Roman Forum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps. We purchased tram tickets at our hotel for €1.50 each one way and headed to the Colosseum. Halfway there I realized the pre-purchased tickets I had carefully printed and packed were still in the folder marked “Italy” at our hotel. Luckily, I found the receipt in my email before the tram even got to our stop. Here’s a quick plug for investing in an international phone plan when you travel!


Despite some prior historical research, I was still surprised by the magnitude of the Colosseum upon our arrival. We explored every crevice and read every sign, trying not to get too depressed by the horrific history held within those walls. As we let the size of it all sink in, we were reminded how small this world actually is when we ran into fellow tourists wearing University of Denver hats and sweatshirts. We struck up a conversation and it turned out to be a family from Chicago (John’s hometown) and one of the kids was a freshman at DU.


A six-minute walk from the Colosseum at the corner of somewhere beautiful and historic sat Trattoria Luzzi (Via di San Giovanni in Laterano 88), our lunch spot pre-determined on our itinerary thanks to Tripadvisor. The food was excellent and the atmosphere lively given it was the lunch hour on a weekday. We chatted with a couple seated next to us—they do like to cram people into those red and white checkered tables—who were missionaries with the Mormon Church and friends with Mitt Romney. Because of course they were.

It’s a miracle to think our necks weren’t cricked by the end of our trip since we spent so much time looking up at striking ceilings. The Pantheon took my breath away, with that shard of light shining down from above. We were mesmerized by the Trevi Fountain and found gelato there that was just as delightful. The Spanish Steps were picturesque, but not enticing enough to trek up. We ended the day with a walk back to our hotel through the Piazza di Siena, near the Borghese Gardens, then dinner at Taverna Rossini (Viale Gioacchino Rossini 54).


Tuesday was dedicated to the Vatican, a truly awe-inspiring place at every turn. Making our way along the large exterior wall of the Vatican, we ignored the hawkers and scam artists trying to convince us we were going the wrong way. This is where instincts kick in and you go where your gut tells you. Particularly if your gut is informed by extensive research and you know the entrance is just around the corner. We entered through the group entrance using our pre-purchased tickets (which I remembered to bring this time) and walked the seemingly endless spiral ramp toward the real entrance. Browsing the Vatican Museum and Sistene Chapel in a shoulder-to-shoulder crowd isn’t as claustrophobic as you’d think when you have such bold and beautiful art to behold.


If the museum and chapel were confining with the hordes of people, then the antidote would be taking in the expansive view of Rome at the top of St. Peter’s Basilica. The wait in line took about 20 minutes, with an additional 10 to secure tickets to climb to the dome (free entry to St. Peter's but you have to pay €7 for the pleasure of hiking up to the dome). The winding stairwell and 551 steps were worth the views and selfies, but one does question it all around step 372. We earned that pint and panini after the trek and found a trendy and delicious spot in Duecentogradi, serving B Four Beer (a brewery from Latina, Italy).

Sorrento

Sorrento, the land of citrus, is located near the ankle of the Italian boot, somewhere near Pompei and beyond Naples. A train ride is all it takes to get to this seaside resort town, though it’s never as simple as it seems. The first leg of the journey went off without a hitch, but by the time we hit Naples and left the train station to find some food, I became overwhelmed getting lost and rolling our bags through the uneven streets lined with street vendors. Every travel duo faces a moment amidst their journey when communication breaks down and tempers flare. That was our Naples experience. I’ll decline to go into details, but just know we bailed on sustenance and got back to the station. The circumvesuvian/local train was crammed with people and made 34 stops. This is not an exaggeration. But it is good to know it only takes 34 stops to make up with your travel partner (in this case, husband) and be back on the right track (literally).


The Hilton Sorrento Palace is exactly that: a palace (seriously, Google Image it and now you know why we chose it). Being it was November and this is a resort town, we found the hotel lacking in what one might call…guests. This led to our free upgrade to a suite. Sliding open the balcony door, we took in the twinkling lights of the city below. Little did I know this view was even more spectacular in daylight, as the Gulf of Naples greeted us in the morning. We spent our days in Sorrento relaxing, wandering, and eating – really the only way to spend time in Sorrento, as far as I can tell.


Fahrenheit Ciampa (Via degli Aranci 13) became our go-to spot, with their handcrafted cocktails and reasonable prices luring us in each night before exploring the town. No one was ever there, but that just made us feel special (and I’m sure is a completely different scenario in the summer). I’ll recommend wine tasting at Fuoro 51 (Via Fuoro, 51), a small hole in the wall offering friendly service and local wines to sample and savor. Our last act in Sorrento included a race to the train, since we tried to fit in one last slice of Neapolitan-style pizza at Da Franco, a spot with enticing reviews. It was totally worth burning my mouth on the molten hot cheese as we tried to scarf down a slice before racing to the train – that’s how good it was.


Back to Rome

It’s always a challenge deciding what to do on your last night in a city, but I have to say our final hours in Rome were spent well. We got gelato at Frigidarium - considered one of the best gelato shops in all of Italy (and I concur) and then lazed around the Piazza Navona and enjoyed views of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. We took an Uber to our hotel near the airport since we had an early flight and as we drove, I tried to bask in the glory of Rome for those final moments and miles.

I suspect Italy is on your travel list, but if it isn’t: add it. This was just a taste and I can’t wait to go back for more. All the things I suspected to enjoy — the history, the food, the architecture — were better than I could imagine. But until we meet again, all I have is my imagination as I conjure up more travel adventures and simply recall the sights, tastes, and sounds of Rome and Sorrento.



Italy Tips:

Note that they eat later in Italy and restaurants might be empty until 9:00.
Eat gelato every chance you get.
Uber works!
Ask your hotel if they sell tram tickets.
Figure out your coffee order before you go.
Trust Tripadvisor.
Pre-purchase as many tickets as you can to avoid the lines and confusion.
Don’t be afraid to just wander – chances are you’ll find something beautiful.