Getting to the Root of It All: The Drive with My Dad

If you can hire a car and manage stickshift on the other side of the road, take a few days to tour around England. There’s more to see on this island than London and I was lucky enough to have my dad here in March to show me. Being that I can’t hire a car, manage stickshift, or drive on the other side of the road, it was a good thing he got here.

My first stop on the tour with the pop was Hereford, about two hours from Oxford. His cousin Tony lives there with wife Sandra, and they showed us a wonderful time. Situated on the River Wye, which seems to wind all along the area, Hereford was a lovely stop on the driving adventure.

We headed a few miles out of town to The Green Man for drinks and dinner. Sitting in a place that pre-dates America certainly brings some historical perspective to the table, as this restaurant/inn dates back to 1485. A few Stowford Press Ciders later our food arrived and tasted of pure perfection. The menu was laden with delicious options, but I’ve got to recommend the chicken kiev.

The next morning we woke up to the best English breakfast I’ve ever had, but unless you know Tony and Sandra, don’t expect to get one. We left the house fairly early to head to York, a few hours away in north Yorkshire.

The Marriott on the edge of town near the racecourse was a welcomed sight, as it had been awhile since I could partake in the plush comforts of a nice hotel. Hitting up hostels is all good fun, but traveling with the rents means better quality, and the Marriott spells quality. In other words, I could leave the shower shoes at home.

York is a truly trendy spot in northern England, with hipster restaurants and pubs dotting the streets of this walled city. We took in a pint at a pub along the river and then found one of many Indian restaurants in the city centre. The Akash Tandoori provided a decent meal and good service, and it was one of the more traditional curry houses opposed to some of the modern establishments in the area that lack charm.

No trip to York is complete without a visit to the York Minister, as it's the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe. When my brother was there as a kid, he was sure to apologize to a security guard about the fire that destroyed the place in 741.

From York we took to the road and found ourselves in my dad’s old stomping grounds, a village named Wetwang (seriously). Driving along the Yorkshire Wolds and discovering this village of his past made the trip worthwhile. He escaped to this country landscape to spend the summers with his grandmother as a child.

We then stopped over in Hull so I could meet my great aunt. Molly, my paternal grandfather’s sister, is fantastic. We chatted up a storm about past, present, and future family affairs. We then crossed the Humber Bridge to meet up with another one of his cousins, David, at The Whistle and Flute pub. A cider and a good chat later we set off again.

Our last stop on the journey landed us in Lincoln, a place my mom spent several weeks studying Tennyson as a graduate student at the Tennyson Research Centre. As recommended by my Frommer’s Guide to England, we booked into the White Hart Hotel. Full of history, this hotel saw the likes of Churchill, Eisenhower, and Margaret Thatcher. Of course, history doesn’t always translate to comfort. The halls were like mazes and the beds were like boards. For about 160 pounds, the only redeeming feature of this hotel was the view of the cathedral.

On the very appropriately named Steep Hill Street, you’ll find Browns Pie Shop, a cozy, atmospheric restaurant. Think of a pie filling and it’ll be there, but I’m not talking typical dessert pies, these are proper pies you can only find in northern England. I dove into a fisherman’s pie, stuffed with salmon and halibut, in a creamy parsley sauce, and topped with a layer of mashed potatoes. My dad tried out something different and went for the venison and blackcurrent pie, with a crusty top keeping in the piping hot mixture. And if you need to work off the pie, just hike up the hill back to the cathedral… it’s sure to give you a full cardio work out.

We braved the rain soaked motorway and made it back to London the next day. It was a great trip to connect to my roots and see the country where my roots were planted. Even if you don’t have family in the area, looking beyond London can only bring you a smile, as this land is diverse and charming. Start practicing that stickshift and whole other side of the road thing ASAP.