the travel writings of a globetrotter who could use more frequent flier miles
Sunday, February 21, 2010
I'll Remember the Titans: Tennessee
What do Elvis, barbeque, and Pringles have in common (besides an evident tastiness that can’t be denied)? They all hail from Tennessee.
I never thought I’d step foot on Titan soil—not due to lack of desire, but simply due to lack of opportunity. I mean really, who goes to Tennessee? As I came to find out, music-loving, barbeque-eating, Jack Daniels-downing young folks who are looking for a good time.
Desire met with opportunity when my friend Alicia’s brother Aaron moved out there to work for Proctor & Gamble. P&G does it all, from paper towels to dog food to the aforementioned Pringles. Chances are, if you’re eating a Pringle in North America, it was made in Jackson, Tennessee (thanks for the factoid, Aaron).
Landing in Memphis at 10 p.m. didn’t allow for much window-gazing, but I suspect it’d be on the greener side of things. The size of the airport rivals your typical gas station, so don’t expect to quench your Starbucks craving here. Once we hit the road for the journey to Jackson, the view didn’t improve much, but we’ll blame that on the darkness that time of night brings.
Jackson is a practical town on the verge of qualifying as a city (Wikipedia might call it a city, but I’m not quite willing since it’s a bit smaller than my hometown of Las Cruces). Similar to a Western US town, it’s spread out with a typical mall, cluster of restaurants, and pleasant residential areas.
The suburban architecture is charming and everything you’d want in a neighborhood. We were situated by a large park and wooded area, ideal for all the running, jumping, throwing, sword-fighting*, frisbeeing you could want. *yes, we witnessed mock sword-fights practically in the backyard. Awesome.
It took a Google search and a text to my historian brother to determine if Tennessee fought for the North or South during the Civil War (my US history teachers would not be impressed by my lack of memory on the subject). I was dismayed to learn it was indeed a Confederate state, confirming we were truly visiting the South. As if the humidity and accents didn’t give it away.
Take note that our trip took place during Thanksgiving, so there was a lot of down time spent drinking, eating, and lounging. Pretty much everything you want Thanksgiving to be. Props to Sam, Aaron’s girlfriend, for preparing a fantastic traditional meal. The turkey was brined to perfection at 5 a.m., the potatoes were mashed to the smoothest consistency imaginable, and the stuffing was stuffed to the stuffiest stuffing you could ever stuff.
If you ever find yourself in Jackson, Tennessee (hey, you never know) hit the Green Frog Coffee Company just off the main square and devour a scrumptious fried pie. Chilled or warmed up, you can’t go wrong with this empanada-style morsel that oozes fruity delight.
Ever wonder how the South does wine? Look no further than the Old Medina Winery, a rustic winery in the backwoods of Jackson. It doesn’t take the most refined palette to realize that it’s the Southern sweet tea version of wine—most samples taste like a Splenda-spiked rosé, but it was refreshing and unusual. Beyond the two shared bottles and free tasting, what really made the evening soar was the live music. Kick back on the enclosed porch and get blown away by some local blues.
Over in downtown Memphis, you’ll find the GibsonGuitarMuseum and Memphis Grizzlies basketball stadium. There are tons of music shops lining the streets, so pop into one and take advantage of signed memorabilia in a state brimming with famous acts that have come and gone. And if you’re willing to drop $30+, visit the home of the most famous act to ever cross through Tennessee: Elvis Presley's Graceland.
There’s a great selection of food and fun in Memphis, including a place with a 7-lb. burger challenge even a gaggle of football players would have trouble finishing (Adam from Man v. Food lost that challenge, too). But we opted for another restaurant made famous by a food-themed TV show. You’ve heard of a heart-attack special before, but Dyer’s on Beale Street takes it to a whole new level. Featured on The Travel Channel’s Deep Fried Paradise, the world-famous Dyer’s is an unassuming burger joint with one major thing going for it—90-year-old oil.
Seriously.
Back in 1912, the cafe opened and the grease was strained daily and it's still used to this day. When the restaurant moved to historic Beale Street, an armored truck escorted the oil across town. Don’t believe me? Why read in suspicion when you can watch in awe. Good thing I didn’t see this clip before we went, otherwise the guilt would have ruined the taste:
Tennessee might boast legendary football and ribs, but the most outstanding thing borne from this area is the music. From Nashville to Memphis, the music scene is rich in history and talent. The strumming of an electric guitar is almost haunting as the sound echoes down Beale Street, and with an Elvis statue perched at the end of the road, it’s almost as if he’s watching over the budding talent on the streets. Based on what I heard, I think he’d approve.
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