Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day One

There’s something about this city—the modern vibe mixed with old world, the clash of East meets West, the mysterious atmosphere set against a picturesque backdrop at every turn—that makes you fall head over heels in love with Istanbul. Perhaps not at first glance. Maybe not even on the first day. But given time, something grabs hold of you and you’re left wondering what enamored you in the first place…

For me, it was the colors, the spices, the kindness of strangers…the taste of piping hot apple tea, the distant fragrance of hookah smoke, the streetside kebabs, the freshly squeezed pomegranate juice…the bridges, the towers, the mosques. It’s all been there for years—for centuries, even. And I was lucky enough to discover this new old world for a wonderful week that will forever reside in my most cherished memories. 

This trip features my travel buddy Sarah, a fellow publishing/journalism/yearbook editor junkie from Las Cruces, who now lives in London via Albuquerque. We landed at Ataturk Airport via British Airways after a three hour flight from London Heathrow (about £80 total). Before going through customs, we bought a temporary visa sticker for $20 (to be paid in a currency that matches your passport, so bring cash and avoid lira at this point in the process). It didn’t take long for us to be slightly harassed, as a young man sporting a blazer approached us in the airport lobby asking where we were headed. We eventually sidestepped him and made it to the taxi line, where a man grabbed our suitcases and took off for the furthest cab in a strut akin to a powerwalk. Why we avoided the dude in the blazer and allowed this guy full-access to our bags, I still don’t know. But he led us to a taxi and demanded some money for his trouble (he scoffed at the British coinage—the only small change we had). 

Driving along the water into Istanbul wasn’t inspiring, but rather practical. The road was lined with strip malls, restaurants, and car dealerships. But then we saw it: the wall. Not just any wall, but the Wall of Constantinople—enclosing the old city that had been conquered and lost countless times over the centuries. The taxi driver, perpetually stuck in second gear, sped up and down the cobblestone hills and then abruptly stopped on a street corner. He got out of the car and disappeared into the night, leaving two American gals he must have deemed trustworthy confused in the backseat. 

Our cab driver eventually returned, clutching our paper indicating our hotel address, and took off again. Two additional stops and a few conversations with locals later, he pulled up to Art City Hotel. Needless to say, he was happy to have located the hidden gem that was our hotel and didn’t think twice about keeping all the change as tip (taxi from the airport cost about 40 TYL…probably less if your driver knows where he’s going). 

In the initial planning phase, the Art City Hotel came out on top in regards to price ($66/night), location (behind the Blue Mosque), services (free wi-fi, breakfast, and private bathrooms), and reviews (“hilly, but nice”). Upon arrival, it was clear we made the right choice. We were graciously greeted by Serkan, the hotel manager, who quickly provided tea while he gathered information. The service was impossible to beat and the free breakfast was wow-worthy considering the cheap price of the overall accommodation. And while previous reviews were correct in that it was a hilly location, you’re technically in the Blue Mosque’s backyard and after two treks up two hills, you’re in the middle of all the action.

Free wi-fi on every floor made for an incredible signal and while I didn’t bring a laptop, I was equipped with a smartphone. Let’s take a minute to praise the iPhone, shall we? Admittedly, I was a reluctant convert from a ’05 style flip-phone, but with the iPhone not only was I able to text with fellow iPhone users for free while abroad, but I also had GPS available 24/7 (discovered way late in the game, but still…). If you’re considering an extended trip abroad, the iPhone is a must-have. Sorry, Dad (an avid Android user)!

After checking and settling in, we opened the balcony door just in time to hear the call to prayers. This inspired us to venture into the city and hunt down some sustenance. We garnered directions from the front desk and set off for the main part of the Sultanahmet district, where we caught our first glimpse of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. I’m not typically taken aback by architectural beauty, but you’d be hard-pressed to be unimpressed with these superb buildings. They both represent the true meaning of splendor. 

Trekking through a populated tourist area on the southeast side of the Blue Mosque, we were getting chatted up left and right by restaurateurs hoping to secure our business. If you avoid every place that calls out to you, you’ll never eat. My advice: go to the proprietor who seems the least sleazy. While en route to finding an appealing establishment we heard a voice yell out to us that seemed louder than the typical vendor. We looked over to see the blazer-clad man from the airport leaning out of a van. “It’s me! We met at the airport!” We waved cautiously, smiled awkwardly, and quickened our step. He then ran out of the van—packed full of his friends, seemingly enough for a full soccer team—and caught up with us. Grinning ear to ear, he explained that he runs a shuttle business to and from the airport and then wanted to know where we were going. Scamming? Flirting? Innocently acknowledging a crazy coincidence? We didn’t stick around to find out. You should know: Sarah and I are cautious. It might make us boring, but hey…we’re still around to tell the story, aren’t we?

We stopped at a place where the young man offered a 15% discount and a free appetizer. Knowing full-well that even the 15% discount was overcharging us, our hunger surrendered to his pleas. It ended up being a pleasant first meal in Turkey: hummus, chicken shishka, and plenty of pita bread. It ended with a free vodka drink from our waiter, who also wanted to be our Facebook friends. This would just be the first instance in a series of marriage proposals, one-sided phone number exchanges, and inquiries as to which Spice Girl I represented as we made our way through a very flirtatious Istanbul. 

Continue to Day Two...