Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day Five

It took twenty minutes and a buck to go to Asia for a day. Istanbul is wow-worthy for a lot of reasons, including the fact it consists of 13 million people, spread over two continents. While the European side is infused with tourists, the Asian side felt more authentic and was an ideal excursion to gain a deeper sense of what this city is all about. 

We headed to the ferry terminal where free-standing machines doled out the 2 lira tokens needed for each way. I highly recommend securing both tokens on this side, as it’s straightforward and a guaranteed cheap price. The commuter ferry docked and there was a mad rush to get on, even though the spacious interior allowed for plenty of seating. Twenty minutes along the Bosphorus and we arrived in Kadıköy. There are tons of options for traveling the high Sea of Marmara around Istanbul, including day-long trips on fancy ferry boats…but the commuter ferry and our hop, skip, and jump to Kadıköy was perfect. If you’re there in the summer, it will be worth exploring your island options.

Upon stepping foot on Asian soil, we celebrated via high five the fact we were indeed in Asia for the first time. We wandered through a fresh market where the smell of fish pervaded our senses. Then an arcade with a string of used bookstores made for interesting perusing, despite the understandable lack of English titles. Our exemplary navigational skills that landed us in Asia successfully deserved a culinary reward and so we indulged at Baylan Patissiere for Kuy Griye (pronounced by yours truly the French way as coup grillet). A layered caramel concoction that’s certainly worth the 12 lira price tag, the Kuy Griye literally melted in my mouth. The kind waiter then helped point us in the direction of the largest bookstore in Turkey: ALKIM. 

After doing our publishing roots proud by checking out the local brick and mortar bookstore scene, we found a coffee house for a truly Turkish experience. Up until this point I’m not ashamed to admit we resorted to the always reliable Starbucks for the daily caffeine jolt, but it was time to (wo)man up and go for the real deal. Turkish coffee is legendary: strong and flavorful, I expected to swoon over this javalicious brew. Instead, I winced in near pain as the swampy, sooty half liquid/half dirt trickled down my throat. I wanted to like it, hell I wanted to love it…but it was a no go. The coffee house itself provided fortune telling based on the dredges of the coffee left behind in your cup, but considering it was all in Turkish, we resisted the 20 lira combo deal.

With the taste of soot still swirling around my mouth, we needed to cleanse our palettes with something delicious. We passed by a little wooden restaurant sporting a “Since 1867” sign and decided to give it a try. Little did I know, it would end up being one of the best meals of my life. 

Upon entering Kabepci Iskender, we were seated by a few men, who quickly retrieved the only English-speaking waiter in the joint. He offered us a sample of sira (fermented non-alcoholic grape juice), and when we determined it was sweet and delicious, he brought us full glasses. The limited menu simply features doner kebab in varying portion sizes, so for 21 lira we each ordered the single portion. While we waited, we read about the storied history of this special eatery—a place that really capitalized on the process and brand of their product. And we could see why: the lamb doner soon arrived and quick on its heels was a man clad in white carrying a sizzling pan. Inside? Melted sheep’s butter. He poured it over the doner plate and didn’t wait around to watch our utter delight. 

 

A single bite secured the fact this was a spectacular meal in front of us: sliced pita under a delectable tomato sauce, swimming in tender pieces of seasoned lamb presumably cut right off the spit. And did I mention the sizzling sheep’s butter? C’mon. Best. Meal. Ever. The only thing that made the experience better was that afterward, as we shopped for tea in the grocery store across the street, our waiter appeared with a shopping bag I had left behind. What service! Well played, Iskender. Well played.

That night we were mesmerized by a Whirling Dervish ceremony at the Sirkeci Train Station—the end point of the Orient Express. The setting was ideal: brooding ceilings with a touch of architectural prowess. The room was sparse and filled with tourists, but the minute the musicians walked in to serenade us with traditional Sufi music, we were all transported to another world. The dervishes, devout Sufi Muslims, performed their religious ceremony which, as you can rightly assume, consisted of a lot of whirling. And then some more whirling. And for good measure, they whirled some more.

Tickets (40 lira each) go on sale at 5:30 p.m. inside the station. I recommend dropping by when you first arrive in Istanbul to read the sign and find out which nights they perform, because the internet spreads some wildly different ideas about days and times. The ceremony doesn’t start until 7:30, so head across the street for a bite of baklava while you wait. Photography is allowed, but beware: some ceremonies in the area do not allow it as this is a religious ceremony, not a show. 

While the price may deter you, I do recommend it because really, when will you have this sort of opportunity again? The kind of opportunity that allows you to sit at the terminus of the Orient Express and be wowed by authentic dervishes in the Mevlevi order. 

Continue to Day Six...