Living on the Edge: Inis Mór

I was on the edge of the world – peering over jagged cliffs into the churning blue ocean. Looking across the distance I could see the horizon crash into the water. The sun lost its spherical form and just blended with the bright sky. It’d be blinding save for $6 sunglasses.

Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands in the very west of Ireland, conjured thoughts of the sublime. Stepping on the 1,000 BC rock made me lose my sense of time and space. I have never been anywhere more dramatic or thought-provoking than the cliffs of Inis Mór.

The ferry ride from Galway to the Aran Islands (€18) was hilarious to say the least. Sitting on the back of the 150-seat cruiser, the waves jumped up while on the choppy waters, giving Miriam and I an impromptu salt-water shower. Between fits of giggles, we stumbled toward the inner cabin for the remainder of the ride.

Once you disembark, lines of tour buses will be waiting to tempt you. I suggest you take one—because we didn’t and we should have. Instead, we set off on foot, grabbing a sandwich to take along at the one and only grocery store on the island.

On our hunt for a picturesque spot to eat, we were passed by warp speed minibuses, most signaling that they’d pick us up. But we found some flat rocks overlooking the Atlantic, so we picnicked in the Irish wind.

We kept to the trek and hiked a hill or two, until a tour bus had the decency to stop for us. He offered a ride to the fort and cliffs (€5), which were miles away. Our driver—along with most people we encountered on the island—was so nice, I need a new word for nice. Once we were dropped off at the fort, he organized a ride back to the port for us.

The short hike to the top of Dún Aengus is lined with Bronze Age walls, with jagged remnants on the ground below (caution: do not attempt to wear flip flops on this journey!). Through the stone wall opening, the drama unfolds. We were nearly knocked over by the gusts of wind making its presence known. When I saw the view from atop, I couldn’t help but exhale in absolute awe.

After the photos are snapped and the video captured, sit on the cliff and soak in the sun (if you’re so lucky to have it shine). It could take minutes or hours, but take the time to take it all in: the view, the trip, the life around you.

On the way back to the ferry, we couldn’t help but grin. Joe Gill drove us in his minibus and answered questions about the island (population: 800, average house price: €250,000, major industry: tourism). This time around we selected the interior ferry seats, being we had just dried off from the last venture.

The arandirect ferry was pleasant, but let me recommend any other company so you can take a 7:30 p.m. return instead of the 5 p.m. – you’ll need as much of the day as possible on the island if it is only a day trip. There seems to be enough to do if you desire an overnight stay – with plenty of bed and breakfasts or hostels dotted around the island. A 45-minute bus ride took us back to the city centre from the Rossaveal Port (€6) by 7 p.m. Expect a fully loaded coach on that last service back to civilization.

Inis Mór provided me with much needed perspective and a brilliant photo-op. I’ll always remember those crashing waves, the staggering cliffs, and stepping up to the edge of the world and smiling.