Hungry for Entertainment: Bored in Budapest

I disliked Budapest the moment our EasyJet plane skidded on the slick runway. It wasn’t anything specific, but just a general feeling of discontent. There was something inexplicable about the two cities of old and new that didn’t sit right.

To be honest though, I went to Hungary with zero expectations; reading the few paragraphs dedicated to Budapest in my Lonely Planet didn’t necessarily prepare me for landing. But figuring things out when you get there is half the fun. However, my overly organized self wouldn’t enter a bustling city without a hotel booked, so we researched the best option online, and found a steal of a deal at The Radio Inn.

Arriving at the small airport on the outskirts of town, we changed money to forints ($1 USD = 153 HUF) and then hopped on a bus to the metro station. Through the rain soaked window we took note of what can only be described as communist block buildings as we pulled up to the metro station.

The station itself was filled with smoke and sketchy looking locals, with everything seemingly in a sepia tone. I suggest you clutch your purse until you can escape. We bought tickets from the unhelpful help desk and then maneuvered the metro to an area near Hero’s Square.

The Radio Inn looked great online, a two-bed apartment for $90 in a quiet diplomatic area, but of course, these things are usually too good to be true. It definitely served its purpose and was in a great location, but The RI could have been a lot better. For instance, it could have a shower curtain.

As mentioned, the location was supreme and we landed a spot within fifteen minutes of all the PestAndrassy Street you can find Liszt Square action. The action, however, didn’t consist of much. Off with a row of restaurants. The prices are high, but it’s worth it for consistency and a guaranteed crowd. Stray down any other streets and chances are you’ll be greeted by front window kebab shops and random underground clubs.

Our first real day there turned out better than the first (the sun certainly helped matters). We took in a coffee at Vian Café in Liszt Square and headed toward the Danube. Saint Stephen’s Basilica is amazing and architecturally speaking, all of Budapest proves impressive. We crossed the bridge to get to Buda Castle and the views could take your breath away. Of course, climbing up to the castle will also take your breath away, but it’s feasible without the help of public transportation.

Wandering around the castle area took up a good amount of the day, along with an overpriced meal at Miro Café. Mark had a field day with all the photo-ops while on the hill. We headed back to our hotel for a break before dinner, which was plain yet filling at Moyo Café.

The best night out we had started at Champs Pub where they had plenty of screens to watch the EuroCup matches. After a pint, we went across the street to Den Haag Pizzeria and had the best meal in Budapest: a pizza for 800 HUF. Back at Liszt Square, we went to Karma for dessert and to watch the rest of the game.

Be sure to check out the Baths in City Park if you’re into that sort of thing (meaning public baths; to steal a line from The Daily Show, “….excuse me while I get the taste of band-aids and urine out of my mouth”). Hero’s Square, the art museum, and the park are notable attractions all located in the same area. An almost decent cup of coffee can be had at Gloria Jeans near the square, though expect to shell out about $9 for two. Why am I always on the hunt for a good cup of coffee? Oh yeah, because it's impossible to find in Europe.

The whole time I was in Budapest, I couldn’t wait for the next adventure. Rarely do I give a city a bad review on this blog, in fact most seem to rank in my top favorites, but Budapest deserves a thumbs down. If you’re in the area, check it out, but you only need a day to fully explore the capital of Hungary. The food is blasé – I dare say bad – and the tourist attractions are fairly lackluster. We didn’t find any pleasant locals and unless you’re down with the underground club scene, the nightlife is nonexistent. Sorry Hungary, but even with zero expectations, you failed.