Santa Fe: The Jewel of New Mexico?

Santa Fe is just dripping with history and culture. With an overpriced art gallery on every corner and adobe homes that date back older than America itself, this Southwest city is a place many artists call home and many tourists call heaven.

Driving to Santa Fe provides a view like no other. Endless turquoise skies meet varied desert landscapes—and it’s not all cacti and tumbleweeds; spots of green can be seen for miles and blue-tinted mountains stretch across the background. Crossing from American soil to Indian reservation land is seamless, but a discreet sign will let you know when you’re passing through Indian territory (that and a not-so-discreet casino or two). The scenery could easily be that from a movie set—one is just waiting for the cowboys and Indians to come galloping around the corner. And depending on which exit you take upon your arrival, the magical aura presented by Santa Fe will stay in tact. But more on the disillusion later.

It all comes together at the plaza—the heart of Santa Fe and arguably the heart of New Mexico. The plaza is where state politics and traditional art converge, where spicy street food meets authentic mariachi music, and where genuine Indian jewelry collides with roaming tourists.

The Roundhouse—the official hub for New Mexico politics, Governor Bill Richardson, and my brother Mark—is a graceful building that is just modest enough to be an appropriate venue for this state. Legislators and senators roam the halls undisturbed, as the hustle and bustle pace seen in Washington DC politics isn’t quite the same here in the land of mañana.

The oldest church in America sits along a side street, often paling in comparison to the cathedral and the church with the winding staircase. All three are worth an exterior photo-op, but not all are worth going inside. The Loretto Chapel charges a $5 entry fee and in the words of my friend Caitlyn, I don’t pay to see houses of worship.

Restaurants serving up local fare in this area are typically overpriced and on the snooty side of things, but don’t despair! Affordable delectability is within reach. Santa Fe is a culinary mecca, ranging from the über expensive to the more reasonably priced grub, there’s a fit for every craving and wallet size. Here are some of my favorites—all for under $20.

Del Charro at the Inn of the Governor (101 West Alameda Street) is one of my all-time favorite spots worldwide. You’ve got to stop in for a legendary margarita ($6.50) and ignore dietary restraints for a flavorful bite of the nachos ($7). Whether you reside fireside in the cozy interior, or enjoy the enclosed porch with heaters blazing in the winter, you’re bound to enjoy a meal at this charming stop.

Craving Indian? I’ve been going to the Indian Palace (227 Don Gaspar Avenue) for as long as I can remember—even way back when I detested Indian food (oh, what a misguided child I was). It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with Indian cuisine—the papadums and mango lassies helped charm me into a food-induced trance that has yet to end. A friendly owner, atmospheric interior dining room, and spacious patio setting will get you to stay, but the food stirred, simmered and cooked to perfection will get you to go back for more.

There’s a fair share of decent pubs throughout SF, from the Marble Tap Room (60 East San Francisco Street) brewing the best of Marble beer overlooking the plaza, to the Second Street Brewing Company (1814 Second Street) on the railroad tracks, you can get a hoppy buzz all over town. My favorite watering hole is The Blue Corn Café & Brewery, with a combination of excellent beer on tap and killer food and all at a very un-Santa Fe price, this is the five-star brew pub in my book. But beware! Don’t go to the dark and moody downtown version, instead make the trek to the southside and visit 4056 Cerrillos Road for your Blue Corn experience.

New Mexico is the only state with an official question, so be prepared to answer “red or green” when you hit these must-have Mexican restaurants: Tia Sophia’s (210 West San Francisco Street), The Zia Diner (326 South Guadalupe Street), and best of all, Tecolote (1203 Cerrillos Road). And if you have time to head off the beaten track, visit Harry’s Roadhouse (96 Old Las Vegas Highway) for some decent diner food with a Mexican twist that was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (and is allegedly Gene Hackman’s favorite local haunt)!

Art fans will enjoy the Georgia O’Keefe museum (217 Johnson Street) walking distance from the plaza. You’ll discover the intimate details of O’Keefe’s life and inspirations, along with the majority of her personal work. But if you can’t spare $15 a pop, check out the Lifetime movie.

St. John’s College provides spectacular views and a cozy college feel. I toured this place while in high school, but was instantly turned off when they described that not only would we dissect a cat for the scientific value, but we’d also discuss the philosophical implications of the death of that cat. Um, no thanks. St. John’s tends to produce a lot of overly-educated, philosophically-inclined, about-to-be-unemployed existentialists with rich parents. And even their graduates will tell you that.

There’s certainly an allure to Santa Fe, but to truly understand it, you need to think outside the box; in this case, the box is the plaza. Sure, it’s magical and all that nonsense, but it’s also slightly sketch. Explore the Wal-Mart and you’ll see what I’m talking about. There’s a not-so-shiny side to the jewel of New Mexico, but I don’t recommend you look too deeply into it. I don’t want to burst your allusion of this artist’s haven in the middle of the desert. So go…explore the plaza, eat the food, enjoy the atmosphere. But between you and me? It’s overrated.