Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day Three

Sometimes the best way to figure out a new city is to get lost in it. That’s what I’m going to tell myself anyway, considering it was my fault a straightforward trip to Topkapı Palace turned into an excursion the long way around. But it gave us an opportunity to explore the main campus of University of Istanbul by Beyazıt Square.

With more than 88,000 students, Istanbul University is larger than some of the biggest public universities in the US (those pesky Sun Devils at Arizona State University for instance are 75K in total). The landmark gate signaling the entrance to the university was once the Ottoman ministry of war and is somewhat ominous looking, perhaps the original intent, but now seems odd as an educational facility. 

 

We eventually found Topkapı (really hard to miss if you don’t take a wrong turn—it’s the palace with Turkish military guards outside cradling uzis) and for 20 lira, you gain access to an elegant royal residence belonging to Ottoman Sultans for 400 years. Hundreds of rooms, thousands of jewels, and even more tiles make up this palace…along with several million* schoolchildren. As we waded through the hoards of 8 year olds on field trips, we tried to peer over their heads to see the encased treasures. If you’re there in the summer, bring a picnic to enjoy in the large park area or take in a nice sea view on the edge of the palace grounds.

*not really, more like one million

Better yet, remain in the park and skip the palace if you’re short on time. You read that right: skip one of the top-rated tourist attractions in Istanbul unless you’re spending more than a few days in Istanbul. It was an enjoyable afternoon roaming the palace, but to make it worth the trip you need to spend a good chunk of time or spend money on a personal tour guide.

After a bite at a typically touristy restaurant, we purchased tokens at a ticket machine and took the Kabataş tramway to the Taksim Metro station. Trams seem to run consistently and quickly (avoid walking on the edge of sidewalks, there’s not much space between imminent death and safety). Two lira got us over the Galata Bridge and to the base of the funicular railway, which takes you to the middle of Taksim Square—the alleged heart of modern Istanbul. 

A hopping hub for shopping and restaurants, the square is adjacent to İstiklal Avenue—one of the busiest streets in all of Istanbul. Visited by three million people on the daily, the street is lined with modern shops mixed with Ottoman-era buildings, a chic mix of old and new. From Sephora to Starbucks, every mainstream contemporary business is represented. Wandering in and out of these shops as day turned to dusk, we meandered through the cobblestone streets toward the Galata Tower. 

Built in 1348 AD, the Galata Tower is a great symbol (and point of geographic reference) in Istanbul. Instead of paying money to get to the top of the tower, we entered the Guney Restaurant to dedicate that saved money to beer. Upon entering, make a quick left through the kitchen and head to the second floor (cue confusion) and try to secure an alcove window-seat overlooking the tower. The plan was to just have a drink, but the spot was so coveted we had to stay for dinner and cash in on our luck of finding this gem. In the high tourist season this spot is likely packed—particularly at the outside tables, but in mid-November it remained fairly empty and perfect for keeping an eye on the spectacular tower. 

 

After dinner, we made our way down the hill and bumped right into a tram stop, which took us all the way back to the Sultanahmet. Gliding along Istanbul on the tram at night was gorgeous, with lit up mosques and twinkling lights lining both sides of the Bosphorus. This might have been the moment I fell in love with this city, but it’s hard to tell since I had been enamored the whole time. 

Continue to Day Four...