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A Beautiful Corner of the World: Bavaria

The glory of having a Eurail pass isn’t just the automatic first class upgrade, but the fact you can go off route and explore different cities within the selected country at no extra charge.

From Munich we headed toward Passau for a night, but before we got there we took a detour to Regensburg, a Bavarian city where the Danube and Regen rivers meet. Catch this place on a sunny day and it’s one of the most picturesque cities in existence.

We didn’t have a map or any sense of what to do in this Gothic inspired area of Germany, so we chose a direction and headed in it once we left the train station. Our internal compasses must have been in working order, because we followed a wide stretch of commercial boulevard and came across some gorgeous buildings.

Cross The Stone Bridge over the Danube and behold history at your feet, as this footbridge was built in 1146 and was used during the crusades. Regensburg Cathedral is certainly worth a reconnoiter. This beautiful city has something to see – and take a picture of – at every corner.

From Regensburg we went to Passau, which won’t earn more than a few sentences in my blog. This hilly, university town is a good place to recover when you reach your mid-vacation crisis (running out of laundry). There’s not a huge to-do list, unless you want to do some general shopping or lounging. We regretfully stayed at the overpriced Achat Hotel and drank dunkel bier all night at Maxi Café/Bistro up the street.

Moving on from Passau, we were delighted to reach Nürnberg. This historic city made a definite impression on our trip, marking my favorite stop on our European Explosion Tour.

We stayed at the EuroHotel/Suites, which I highly recommend. A double room runs for 100 euros, but the room was huge and you’re on the castle’s doorstep. The Nürnberg Castle’s distinct sandstone rock makes up three parts and offers impressive views and a grand sense of history.

Just walking through this amazing city is interesting, as it blends old and contemporary architecture because of the damage done during World War II. The Hauptmarkt was buzzing with stands offering food and flowers, along with year-long Christmas décor. Nürnberg simply oozes with historical value, it’s a great place to be a tourist.

As for food, The Bratwurste Hausla was overpriced and overrated, so don’t be lured in by the tempting smell of sausages. Make your way to the Handwerkerhof area and ignore the kitschy tourist feeling in favor of Fränkische Weinstube. This traditional German open air restaurant was one of the best yet and had the kind of schnitzel my German grandmother would make. Near EuroHotel/Suites we had a quiet meal at the Trattoria Germania. It was moderately priced, delicious, and local… not to mention, a respite from German food.

You might be wondering how the typical hunt for coffee went in this new place… let me assure you, we weren’t disappointed. The Starbucks in Nürnberg ranks in my top favorite of all time, since it’s located right along the water and is deceptively huge (Hauptmarkt 1). That makes up for the fact we couldn’t find decent coffee anywhere else.

Our last night in Germany needed to be spent near the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. Funny thing about getting a flight for a penny one way (that includes taxes and fees, my friends) is that you end up in the middle of no where. Before we left, I called several hotels in the surrounding area and put my diminutive German-speaking skills to the test. Apparently it worked, because we secured a reservation at Hotel de Charme.

Now let’s get something straight, traveling with a sibling is awesome… you typically get along, have the same interests, share the same sense of humor. However, you run the risk of people assuming you’re not siblings. This was the case in Iffezheim, where even through the language barrier we understood that our bed and breakfast owner thought we were married. This was further emphasized when he told us in a French accent that the area was very romantic. Needless to say, it was awkward.

Moving right along, we had a blasé meal in town at Bei Leuchtners, had a comfortable (albeit discomfited) stay at Hotel de Charme, and then took a 30 euro cab ride to the Karlsruhe-Baden Baden airport. We passed the village we wanted to stay in, but alas, it was all booked up for a gnome festival (seriously). The lack of hotels near the airport didn’t make the penny flight worth it, so I suggest shelling out a few extra euros to fly to/from a major airport. But hey, if you’re considering buying real estate, may I suggest you pick up some land in this area and build a hotel.

Ich Liebe Deutschland: Munich

After Budapest, I couldn’t wait to hit Bavaria (I may have composed a song to drive this point home, but I’ll spare you the details/lyrics). Mark and I set off for Germany on 10 June by train, though not without a near meltdown as we tried to find the platform in Budapest. Keeping what could be a very long-winded story short, basically there wasn’t an international booth so we had to board without validating tickets. We assumed this would prove problematic on the German side of things, but we took the risk and hopped the 9 a.m. train toward Vienna.

We booked two Eurail Rail and Drive passes before we left the US and they were delivered the day before the Euro tour. If you’re going for a basic pass, check out the Eurail Web site, but if you have any questions or want to do something unique, don’t hesitate to call them (US Number: 1-800-352-7661. International Number: 1-800-352-7661). The customer service rep exuded charm and efficacy, so no need to battle through the Web site for answers.

By the time we reached the Austrian border, the entire aura transformed outside our first class windows. The landscape changed from boring Hungarian plains to a winding journey through some charming wooden areas, where Austrian flags hung with pride.

With a few hours to kill in Vienna, we wish there had been more time allotted to this part of the trip. The shopping street near the Westbahnhof was absolutely hopping with consumers of food and goods alike. Find Café Aroma if you want to meet the nicest Austrians in the world, have a peach cake, and check your e-mail for free on their computer.

By the time we reached Munich a few hours later, we were thrilled to be exploring yet another city. Once we escaped the seedy area around the train station, we instantly fell in love with the broad boulevards lined with trees on the way to our hostel.

The Easy Palace didn’t evoke that warm and fuzzy feeling, but for €18 a night, the EP made for some decent accommodation. It was clean and quiet, with large rooms and a nice staff. The entire town seemed booked, so make sure to reserve early if you’re hitting up Munich in the summertime.

On the way to the hostel we spotted a jubilant restaurant, Café am Beethovenplatz, with live music and a large crowd. Since we were saving so much by staying at a hostel, we decided to splurge and eat at this place, which ended up being one of the best decisions of the entire trip.

Sitting on the exterior patio, the summer breeze hit just right and the grand piano could be heard playing through the windows. Our waitress was fantastic, speaking just enough English to help us with the all-German menu. When she came back with our beers ten minutes later, she apologized profusely for taking so long and gave us two shots of Jaeger on the house. The food was as close to perfection as you could get (I had the turkey, Mark had the pork) and needless to say, it was a welcome occasion after the blasé fare we received in Budapest.

Munich is a really practical city for walking and checking out the sites, of which there are plenty to choose from. We started out with a Starbucks coffee at the train station (best train station in the world, and I’m not just saying that because it produced a decent cup of brew!). Heading east from the train station, we came upon the Marienplatz, or the central square, home to the Glockenspiel (bell-tower). Buy a pretzel or some strawberries to munch and wander through the lively market, the experience is unmatched.

We walked in the rain along Maximilianstrasse, which was pretty uneventful, until you see what’s across the Isar River. You can snap some good shots of the Maximilianeum, the seat of Bavarian Parliament, from afar, but the magnitude of the building can only be felt at the foot of the gargantuan building.

The downtown palace is worthy of a check out. There is rich history and lots of knick-knacks to muse over at The Residenz, a complex built in 1385. Between the architecture, décor, and gardens, this royal oasis is certainly impressive for only €8 each.

After a long walk, lunch and pint were in order, so we stopped into the legendary Haufbrauhaus. Honestly, it’s kind of a rip off for food, but the building and atmosphere can’t be beat, so go for a beer and a photo. A bigger rip off is the Paulaner Munchen, where you can’t even get a good beer. So if you want a truly good German meal with a quality mug of brew, drop into the Augustiner. Any schnitzel will be a dream come true and I recommend the mushroom turkey schnitzel. We befriended a neighboring diner (who I dubbed Herr Asland Mueller) and we had a half German, half English conversation. The overall experience was everything I expected out of Germany.

The Augustiner is near the grounds for Oktoberfest, which are obviously vacant when not covered in beer tents in September, but the Bavaria statue is amazing. The bronze-cast statue of the goddess of Bavaria is over 18 meters high and nearly 100 tonnes… wow! It towers in comparison to pretty much anything and is worth a close up look.

Munich is an enthralling city, rich in history and entertainment. Friendly natives who are accustom to tourists and not annoyed by them is a rarity in Europe, so take advantage of the locals’ pleasant demeanor here. Munich’s motto is “München Mag Dich” ("Munich Likes You"). Well, hey… I can assure you that the feeling’s mutual!

Hungry for Entertainment: Bored in Budapest

I disliked Budapest the moment our EasyJet plane skidded on the slick runway. It wasn’t anything specific, but just a general feeling of discontent. There was something inexplicable about the two cities of old and new that didn’t sit right.

To be honest though, I went to Hungary with zero expectations; reading the few paragraphs dedicated to Budapest in my Lonely Planet didn’t necessarily prepare me for landing. But figuring things out when you get there is half the fun. However, my overly organized self wouldn’t enter a bustling city without a hotel booked, so we researched the best option online, and found a steal of a deal at The Radio Inn.

Arriving at the small airport on the outskirts of town, we changed money to forints ($1 USD = 153 HUF) and then hopped on a bus to the metro station. Through the rain soaked window we took note of what can only be described as communist block buildings as we pulled up to the metro station.

The station itself was filled with smoke and sketchy looking locals, with everything seemingly in a sepia tone. I suggest you clutch your purse until you can escape. We bought tickets from the unhelpful help desk and then maneuvered the metro to an area near Hero’s Square.

The Radio Inn looked great online, a two-bed apartment for $90 in a quiet diplomatic area, but of course, these things are usually too good to be true. It definitely served its purpose and was in a great location, but The RI could have been a lot better. For instance, it could have a shower curtain.

As mentioned, the location was supreme and we landed a spot within fifteen minutes of all the PestAndrassy Street you can find Liszt Square action. The action, however, didn’t consist of much. Off with a row of restaurants. The prices are high, but it’s worth it for consistency and a guaranteed crowd. Stray down any other streets and chances are you’ll be greeted by front window kebab shops and random underground clubs.

Our first real day there turned out better than the first (the sun certainly helped matters). We took in a coffee at Vian Café in Liszt Square and headed toward the Danube. Saint Stephen’s Basilica is amazing and architecturally speaking, all of Budapest proves impressive. We crossed the bridge to get to Buda Castle and the views could take your breath away. Of course, climbing up to the castle will also take your breath away, but it’s feasible without the help of public transportation.

Wandering around the castle area took up a good amount of the day, along with an overpriced meal at Miro Café. Mark had a field day with all the photo-ops while on the hill. We headed back to our hotel for a break before dinner, which was plain yet filling at Moyo Café.

The best night out we had started at Champs Pub where they had plenty of screens to watch the EuroCup matches. After a pint, we went across the street to Den Haag Pizzeria and had the best meal in Budapest: a pizza for 800 HUF. Back at Liszt Square, we went to Karma for dessert and to watch the rest of the game.

Be sure to check out the Baths in City Park if you’re into that sort of thing (meaning public baths; to steal a line from The Daily Show, “….excuse me while I get the taste of band-aids and urine out of my mouth”). Hero’s Square, the art museum, and the park are notable attractions all located in the same area. An almost decent cup of coffee can be had at Gloria Jeans near the square, though expect to shell out about $9 for two. Why am I always on the hunt for a good cup of coffee? Oh yeah, because it's impossible to find in Europe.

The whole time I was in Budapest, I couldn’t wait for the next adventure. Rarely do I give a city a bad review on this blog, in fact most seem to rank in my top favorites, but Budapest deserves a thumbs down. If you’re in the area, check it out, but you only need a day to fully explore the capital of Hungary. The food is blasé – I dare say bad – and the tourist attractions are fairly lackluster. We didn’t find any pleasant locals and unless you’re down with the underground club scene, the nightlife is nonexistent. Sorry Hungary, but even with zero expectations, you failed.

Planes, Trains, and Ferryboats: Getting to Galway

Warning: This blog contain an angry tirade against RyanAir. The ultra cheap airline prides itself on low fares and being on time, but that’s all they have to brag about considering their customer service, treatment of passengers, and general demeanor lack charm or accountability. So be warned, I’m not a RyanAir fan. Read RuinAir for a lengthier account.

Miriam and I booked through RyanAir to head out to Dublin from London Gatwick for £20 return. We were pleasantly surprised to make it to the airport on time after a delay on the motorway. Following a swift check-in and an unobtrusive security screening, we found ourselves alongside the masses waiting for the gate information.

The cheaper airlines love to keep you waiting in the exterior lounge for the gate number to pop up on a miniature screen. Once it does, keep your elbows at the quick and nimble position so you can fight off the hoards of people running to your gate. RyanAir might be the only airline that drives respectable looking businessmen to the great lengths of tripping children in order to secure an aisle seat. But in typical travel fashion, you simply hurry up to wait. We eventually make it to the plane, find a seat, and resist the temptation of buying lottery tickets or overpriced Fanta.

We were greeted by mists of rain as we descended into Dublin, but better yet, we were also greeted by our Irish friend Sarah. We spent the evening at her abode in Swords, a suburb north of Dublin, catching up on all the gossip and events since we last saw each other.

Considering Miriam and I had already “done Dublin” as tourists, we decided to explore another region of this beautiful island. We hopped a bus from the city centre to Heuston Station (€1.30), where we decided to head to Galway. Nothing like last minute decisions in the rain.

Three hours and €44 later we found ourselves in the City of Galway, one of the larger cities in Ireland, though it seems much smaller than that. We were advised by some friends that this was the place for traditional music and a good pint of equally traditional Guinness. Galway was even ranked 14^th best tourist destination in Europe, ahead of Paris, London, and Rome.

A quick search on hostelworld.com led us to The Sleepzone Hostel and we couldn’t have made a better choice. For 14 euros a night, we had an all-female dorm room (six beds) with a surprisingly clean ensuite shower. There was free internet and tea/coffee in the a.m., along with a helpful, friendly staff. It’s no wonder this place was ranked best hostel in Ireland.

Head out to Quay Street (pronounced “key”) to find a row of restaurants and pubs. This tourist area is like the Temple Bar of Galway, yet it’s somewhat cheaper and better quality than the Dublin version. We stopped into Fat Freddy’s Bistro for a bite to eat, dined by candlelight, and managed to rack up a bill under 20 euros.

Once on Quay, you just have to listen to find the right pub to pick. The sounds to look out for come in the form of flutes and bagpipes, cheers and stomping feet. We wandered into the Spanish Arch Hotel and the room was bouncing with energy. The band Alalé was performing and they can be summed up in a word: incredible.

The mix of traditional Irish harmonies with some Spanish fusion made the room erupt in applause for this local band. It was the kind of performance you’d expect to pay for, but the only money I spent was on a pint of Guinness (the dark stuff always makes you feel a little more Irish). This band makes you want to abandon all sense of propriety and jump around the bar with a grin plastered on your face. The fast paced music just screamed with energy, so much in fact, we went back the next night. These four guys know how to play and they made the trip to Galway entirely worth it.

And thank goodness for the Galway experience, because by the time we made it back to the Dublin airport two minutes after RyanAir closed its check in, we were deeply considering if the trip had been worth it. They closed five minutes early and pleading with a snotty woman wearing a RyanAir badge didn’t help us check in. Instead, we were directed to the sales desk where they claimed no flights to England were available that day. The next best thing? A €75 flight to London the next day at noon. We scratched that option and hunted down an internet connection.

Skyscanner.net gave us more options and less attitude than the help desk, though everything under €225 was the following day. With time running out (literally… those internet kiosks are pay by the minute), we booked a flight to Birmingham for 6 a.m. We can blame the Dublin bus system for being unreliable. We can blame RyanAir for closing the check-in desk early. We can blame ourselves for not allotting more time to get there. But in the end, the blame game doesn’t matter when you have to spend 15 hours in the airport.

Needless to say, we survived, though not without a heightened addiction to caffeine. We bought overpriced airport food, read some books, watched TV, slept for an hour on a Starbucks chair, and even had a book and a magazine stolen from the bagel place. But now I can consider myself a true and tested tourist, as all avid travelers need to spend at least one night in an airport.