Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day Four

It was time to gear up…store the valuables in the safe, conduct extensive research, and take deep breaths. We were about to go to the legendary Grand Bazaar—one of the oldest and busiest covered markets in the world. 58 streets, 4,000 shops, and about 400,000 visitors daily...this was it. As we approached the entrance, we braced ourselves for manic shopping mania. 

In reality, we were greeted by a glorified mall with people asking you to come into their stores. Yes, they were insistent and persistent, but ultimately (and luckily) it wasn’t the free-for-all we anticipated. 

Moseying up and down the aisles, we peered into shops selling rugs, leather jackets, scarves, and knickknacks. It’s recommended to bargain down to 50% of the asking price. I attempted this tactic for a darbuka (hand drum), but got denied the sale. Later on I negotiated the combination of a darbuka and a hanging candle holder for 40 lira. Was that good deal? Probably not. But knowing that made it easier to swallow. Plus, a very charming store owner made it an easy sell, having his friend from across the way regale us with a percussion performance (he also tried to haggle for a Saturday night out in Istanbul and provided his phone number, but Hasan was out of luck on that front). Everything we ended up buying at the Grand Bazaar was about 25% off street prices…not entirely worth the hassle of haggling. However, it is a special claim to fame to say you haggled for that gorgeous pashmina you’ll be sporting upon your return home. 

What you need to expect at the Grand Bazaar is consistent and constant call-outs. “Where are you from”?” “Wilkommen!” “Which Spice Girl are you?” Some greetings are more authentic and welcoming than others that seemed forced and disinterested. Just have fun with the experience and don’t take it too seriously. Besides our friend Hasan, we eventually purchased several pashmina scarves from an unassuming gentleman who sipped tea as we riffled through his collection. He gave us a deal because we were allegedly the “first customers of the day,” which of course was not true…but the selection was bountiful and he seemed kind. In the end, if it's a reasonable price and you're pleased to give the person your business, that’s all you can really hope for.

After the old Grand Bazaar, we recovered with a freshly squeezed narsuyu (pomegranate juice) for 2.50 lira while sitting in a square just watching the world go by. Next on the agenda: the Spice Market, a busier and more exotic experience than the morning’s shopping adventure. Rows of spices in vibrant colors, people pushing past at every angle, teas in their raw form…it was the experience I was hoping for. Up above the chaos of the market was the quiet and oddly empty Bab-i Hayat restaurant, where we ate a doner with ayran (a plain yogurt drink). While the food was basic, the view more than made up for it as we peered out our window directly into the main hall of the Spice Market. Even the inside décor was fantastic with detailed tiles and a picture perfect ceiling.  

After a day of hectic shopping, we were determined to relax with some nargile—a word that even flares with exotic romance. Being that I am an official citation on the Wikipedia page for hookah thanks to an article I wrote back in 2006, it was only natural we partake in the national pastime of Turkey. We spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to find a place I read about that was supposedly tucked within an Ottoman cemetery. We were about to give up, but then asked a taxi driver to take us…he kindly instructed us that it was just up the street and not worth the fare. He was right! It did exist! Türk Ocağı Kültür Ve Sanat Merkezı Iktisadi Işletmesı Çay Bahçesi appeared as if by magic, perhaps in a puff of smoke we had simply missed before.

We made our way passed the eerily lit tombs and entered a hubbly-bubbly world of tea drinking hookah smokers, all chatting up a storm. The covered porch area blended easily into the cozy interior, where we grabbed a wooden bench and were approached by a waiter. We asked for “elma cay” and “elma nargile” to match (apple on both counts), and he ticked off an order sheet and ran off. Our water pipe soon arrived—delivered by another man—and that was followed by a boy placing glowing orange coals on top of the mechanism. Everyone had a unique job and it was fascinating just to watch the business run. 

Individual mouth pieces were provided so not to spread germs and after a few minutes of “steeping,” we took an apple-flavored puff. The hookah experience cost 12 lira and each apple tea was merely a lira. Though the name itself induced fits of giggles due to its absurd length, Türk Ocağı Kültür Ve Sanat Merkezı Iktisadi Işletmesı Çay Bahçesi soon grew on us…it was a true insight to the inner workings of Istanbul and a peek into the social culture of this vibrant city. 

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Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day Three

Sometimes the best way to figure out a new city is to get lost in it. That’s what I’m going to tell myself anyway, considering it was my fault a straightforward trip to Topkapı Palace turned into an excursion the long way around. But it gave us an opportunity to explore the main campus of University of Istanbul by Beyazıt Square.

With more than 88,000 students, Istanbul University is larger than some of the biggest public universities in the US (those pesky Sun Devils at Arizona State University for instance are 75K in total). The landmark gate signaling the entrance to the university was once the Ottoman ministry of war and is somewhat ominous looking, perhaps the original intent, but now seems odd as an educational facility. 

 

We eventually found Topkapı (really hard to miss if you don’t take a wrong turn—it’s the palace with Turkish military guards outside cradling uzis) and for 20 lira, you gain access to an elegant royal residence belonging to Ottoman Sultans for 400 years. Hundreds of rooms, thousands of jewels, and even more tiles make up this palace…along with several million* schoolchildren. As we waded through the hoards of 8 year olds on field trips, we tried to peer over their heads to see the encased treasures. If you’re there in the summer, bring a picnic to enjoy in the large park area or take in a nice sea view on the edge of the palace grounds.

*not really, more like one million

Better yet, remain in the park and skip the palace if you’re short on time. You read that right: skip one of the top-rated tourist attractions in Istanbul unless you’re spending more than a few days in Istanbul. It was an enjoyable afternoon roaming the palace, but to make it worth the trip you need to spend a good chunk of time or spend money on a personal tour guide.

After a bite at a typically touristy restaurant, we purchased tokens at a ticket machine and took the Kabataş tramway to the Taksim Metro station. Trams seem to run consistently and quickly (avoid walking on the edge of sidewalks, there’s not much space between imminent death and safety). Two lira got us over the Galata Bridge and to the base of the funicular railway, which takes you to the middle of Taksim Square—the alleged heart of modern Istanbul. 

A hopping hub for shopping and restaurants, the square is adjacent to İstiklal Avenue—one of the busiest streets in all of Istanbul. Visited by three million people on the daily, the street is lined with modern shops mixed with Ottoman-era buildings, a chic mix of old and new. From Sephora to Starbucks, every mainstream contemporary business is represented. Wandering in and out of these shops as day turned to dusk, we meandered through the cobblestone streets toward the Galata Tower. 

Built in 1348 AD, the Galata Tower is a great symbol (and point of geographic reference) in Istanbul. Instead of paying money to get to the top of the tower, we entered the Guney Restaurant to dedicate that saved money to beer. Upon entering, make a quick left through the kitchen and head to the second floor (cue confusion) and try to secure an alcove window-seat overlooking the tower. The plan was to just have a drink, but the spot was so coveted we had to stay for dinner and cash in on our luck of finding this gem. In the high tourist season this spot is likely packed—particularly at the outside tables, but in mid-November it remained fairly empty and perfect for keeping an eye on the spectacular tower. 

 

After dinner, we made our way down the hill and bumped right into a tram stop, which took us all the way back to the Sultanahmet. Gliding along Istanbul on the tram at night was gorgeous, with lit up mosques and twinkling lights lining both sides of the Bosphorus. This might have been the moment I fell in love with this city, but it’s hard to tell since I had been enamored the whole time. 

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Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day Two

More than 20,000 handcrafted tiles cover the interior of the Blue Mosque—officially known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque—a staggering number put in beautiful perspective the moment you step inside this 16th century dome of worship. Before entering, everyone must remove their shoes and place them in provided plastic bags and then ensure no skin is being revealed. Accustom to the constant flow of tourists, the Blue Mosques offers scarves for women to cover up with (even if you’re in tights, they’ll ask you to utilize the scarf). Stick with flip flops in the summer and remember socks and slip-on shoes in the winter for easy in and out access. 

It was a quiet self-guided tour along the prayer area, as we just gawked up at the detailed ceiling and took note of a few men praying. This was the first mosque I’d ever stepped bare foot in, and it was a wonderful one to start off with. Perhaps more impressive than even the interior is the massive courtyard, multiple minarets, and one of several domes seen in every cityscape shot of Istanbul.  

Another oft photographed dome is just up the street. Opposite the Blue Mosque is the Hagia Sophia (Turkish Ayasofya), a church turned mosque turned museum built in 537. This massive structure (the fourth largest cathedral worldwide) is vastly complex, with intricate details and mosaics that seem to go on for miles. The 20 lira entrance fee is money well spent just to have the honor of standing in this building—one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen—as it’s like a golden palace, adorned with surreal floating lights that hang from the massive ceiling. If you do nothing else in Istanbul, visit the Hagia Sophia. 

 

In the same area, just 500 feet below, lies the Basilica Cistern. The ancient waterway system is worth a gander for the 10 lira entrance fee, particularly to see the mysterious, inverted Medusa heads. No one knows how they arrived at the cistern, and I wouldn’t have wanted to be the person to discover them. It’s really a quick tour around this structure and you’ll be surrounded by people, but keep your camera on night vision and you’ll get some interesting shots. 

Following the tram tracks towards the Galata Bridge, we were on a mission for baklava. Here’s a tip: travel with a map reader, it does wonders for trying to find specific locations (something we struggled with thanks to poor numbering systems and a certain lack of street signs…but at least with Sarah at the map’s helm we had a fighting chance). Crossing the bridge over the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus dividing the city, was smile-inducing and a perfect place to take in the magnitude of Istanbul. Fishing poles balanced on the side of the bridge, as fishermen were all at work, most likely gathering the night’s main courses for the restaurants below the bridge.

 

On the other side, we ventured through some busy neighborhoods and stumbled upon our intended destination: Güllüoğlu Baklava Palace. Featured in the New York Times Frugal Traveler, this divine little find was worthy of the trek: more than a dozen varieties of the sinfully sweet layers of honey, pistachios, and phyllo dough were encased in glass. The ordering process was tricky, but we pointed to our selections, had them weighed, devoured every morsel, and then paid the man at the front. Newly rejuvenated by the sugar rush, we sloshed through an impromptu rain shower to the Istanbul Modern. Contrary to what the Lonely Planet tells you, this museum is not free on Thursdays unless you’re a resident of Turkey. Considering I could barely say please and thank you in the native tongue, I couldn't pass as a local. Thanks, LP.

 

That evening we were hoping to double-down on our culinary luck and locate a cheap, but well-reviewed restaurant in the Sultanahmet district named Doy Doy. Excitement soon gave way to frustration however, as we wandered hopelessly by all the touristy restaurants to no avail. We finally gave into a fairly unassuming restaurant that had nearly a dozen waiters scurrying around in black bowties. When presented with the menu, we were surprised to see merely two viable items: meatballs (köfte) and salad. Deciding to make this stop an appetizer and not the whole meal, we split a köfte plate and took off. Later we discovered that we had happened upon an incredibly popular eatery for locals that’s renowned for its small menu and barren interior. Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi is allegedly an Istanbul institution since 1920 (and has a great website, check it out!). But that night, it was just the precursor to an even better meal at House of Medusa.

Still in wander mode, we read menus up and down the street until we found a neat garden restaurant with decent prices and nobody outside trying to sell to us. A sign boasted a review from the New York Times and that was the only stamp of approval we needed to give this place a chance. Sitting in a nice upstairs alcove with attentive service, Sarah had aubergine with minced meat and I enjoyed a deliciously savory pasta with cheese, cream, and walnuts. Coming in around 50 lira for the whole meal, House of Medusa was a charming spot and fabulous experience.

The day had been full of adventure and somewhat sensory overload…exquisite mosques, delicious food, and the sights of a brand new city that was unlike anything I had ever seen before. Strolling through Istanbul back to our hotel that evening, we took in the sight of the Blue Mosque and couldn’t help but feel pleased with our day and decision to visit this exotic land. 

Continue to Day Three...

Istanbul: A Turkish Delight | Day One

There’s something about this city—the modern vibe mixed with old world, the clash of East meets West, the mysterious atmosphere set against a picturesque backdrop at every turn—that makes you fall head over heels in love with Istanbul. Perhaps not at first glance. Maybe not even on the first day. But given time, something grabs hold of you and you’re left wondering what enamored you in the first place…

For me, it was the colors, the spices, the kindness of strangers…the taste of piping hot apple tea, the distant fragrance of hookah smoke, the streetside kebabs, the freshly squeezed pomegranate juice…the bridges, the towers, the mosques. It’s all been there for years—for centuries, even. And I was lucky enough to discover this new old world for a wonderful week that will forever reside in my most cherished memories. 

This trip features my travel buddy Sarah, a fellow publishing/journalism/yearbook editor junkie from Las Cruces, who now lives in London via Albuquerque. We landed at Ataturk Airport via British Airways after a three hour flight from London Heathrow (about £80 total). Before going through customs, we bought a temporary visa sticker for $20 (to be paid in a currency that matches your passport, so bring cash and avoid lira at this point in the process). It didn’t take long for us to be slightly harassed, as a young man sporting a blazer approached us in the airport lobby asking where we were headed. We eventually sidestepped him and made it to the taxi line, where a man grabbed our suitcases and took off for the furthest cab in a strut akin to a powerwalk. Why we avoided the dude in the blazer and allowed this guy full-access to our bags, I still don’t know. But he led us to a taxi and demanded some money for his trouble (he scoffed at the British coinage—the only small change we had). 

Driving along the water into Istanbul wasn’t inspiring, but rather practical. The road was lined with strip malls, restaurants, and car dealerships. But then we saw it: the wall. Not just any wall, but the Wall of Constantinople—enclosing the old city that had been conquered and lost countless times over the centuries. The taxi driver, perpetually stuck in second gear, sped up and down the cobblestone hills and then abruptly stopped on a street corner. He got out of the car and disappeared into the night, leaving two American gals he must have deemed trustworthy confused in the backseat. 

Our cab driver eventually returned, clutching our paper indicating our hotel address, and took off again. Two additional stops and a few conversations with locals later, he pulled up to Art City Hotel. Needless to say, he was happy to have located the hidden gem that was our hotel and didn’t think twice about keeping all the change as tip (taxi from the airport cost about 40 TYL…probably less if your driver knows where he’s going). 

In the initial planning phase, the Art City Hotel came out on top in regards to price ($66/night), location (behind the Blue Mosque), services (free wi-fi, breakfast, and private bathrooms), and reviews (“hilly, but nice”). Upon arrival, it was clear we made the right choice. We were graciously greeted by Serkan, the hotel manager, who quickly provided tea while he gathered information. The service was impossible to beat and the free breakfast was wow-worthy considering the cheap price of the overall accommodation. And while previous reviews were correct in that it was a hilly location, you’re technically in the Blue Mosque’s backyard and after two treks up two hills, you’re in the middle of all the action.

Free wi-fi on every floor made for an incredible signal and while I didn’t bring a laptop, I was equipped with a smartphone. Let’s take a minute to praise the iPhone, shall we? Admittedly, I was a reluctant convert from a ’05 style flip-phone, but with the iPhone not only was I able to text with fellow iPhone users for free while abroad, but I also had GPS available 24/7 (discovered way late in the game, but still…). If you’re considering an extended trip abroad, the iPhone is a must-have. Sorry, Dad (an avid Android user)!

After checking and settling in, we opened the balcony door just in time to hear the call to prayers. This inspired us to venture into the city and hunt down some sustenance. We garnered directions from the front desk and set off for the main part of the Sultanahmet district, where we caught our first glimpse of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. I’m not typically taken aback by architectural beauty, but you’d be hard-pressed to be unimpressed with these superb buildings. They both represent the true meaning of splendor. 

Trekking through a populated tourist area on the southeast side of the Blue Mosque, we were getting chatted up left and right by restaurateurs hoping to secure our business. If you avoid every place that calls out to you, you’ll never eat. My advice: go to the proprietor who seems the least sleazy. While en route to finding an appealing establishment we heard a voice yell out to us that seemed louder than the typical vendor. We looked over to see the blazer-clad man from the airport leaning out of a van. “It’s me! We met at the airport!” We waved cautiously, smiled awkwardly, and quickened our step. He then ran out of the van—packed full of his friends, seemingly enough for a full soccer team—and caught up with us. Grinning ear to ear, he explained that he runs a shuttle business to and from the airport and then wanted to know where we were going. Scamming? Flirting? Innocently acknowledging a crazy coincidence? We didn’t stick around to find out. You should know: Sarah and I are cautious. It might make us boring, but hey…we’re still around to tell the story, aren’t we?

We stopped at a place where the young man offered a 15% discount and a free appetizer. Knowing full-well that even the 15% discount was overcharging us, our hunger surrendered to his pleas. It ended up being a pleasant first meal in Turkey: hummus, chicken shishka, and plenty of pita bread. It ended with a free vodka drink from our waiter, who also wanted to be our Facebook friends. This would just be the first instance in a series of marriage proposals, one-sided phone number exchanges, and inquiries as to which Spice Girl I represented as we made our way through a very flirtatious Istanbul. 

Continue to Day Two...

New Posts Coming Soon

Prepare for Landing will return with all-new travel posts this month! I'm kicking 2012 off with the epic travel tale of Istanbul, Turkey. Also in 2012 you can expect reviews of Toronto, Fort Collins, Rocky Mountain National Park, London, and more. In the meantime, enjoy the Prepare for Landing wordcloud created using words from this blog.